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08-11-2015, 07:17 PM | #1 |
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2015 WRX: Interior map lights won't turn off...Help!
So here’s the story, I’ll try and keep it short. I have a 2015 WRX – limited
I bought the OLM vision series bulbs from SubiSpeed and went to install them in my car one morning before work, ended up dropping one under the seat, had to get to work so I waited till after work to get it. This left me with no interior map lights for the day. After work I found the bulb, installed them both, and neither would turn off. Pushing the on/off buttons only toggled between a bright and brighter setting. Tried putting my old bulbs back in, same problem. All the while, my dome light was working just fine with the new LED bulb, as well as the old bulb. Emailed subispeed, they did not know and were not able to help me. I went to my local dealership, they checked all the classic “my interior lights won’t turn off” trouble spots, reset all the electronics, and then told me my entire map light assembly needed to be replaced to fix the problem... They ordered the part, installed it and the problem was still there. They wanted to rip my car apart to find the issue, so I said no thanks. Has anyone ever experienced this or have any ideas that I can try? I’m currently just crusin’ around with no map light bulbs - does not seem to be hurting anything... Thanks!
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08-11-2015, 08:59 PM | #2 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 53443
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Anchorage, AK
Vehicle:2001 LL Bean Outback Winestone |
If the circuit design is like previous models the lights are most likely turned by the switch completing a connection to ground rather than applying power to the light. I suspect that the two lights are getting a connection to ground somehow when they shouldn't be. Some folks have found wires were damaged due to a screw going through the insulation and grounding the wire. You may find something like that or a pinched wire that is contacting ground. The fact that the lights got brighter when you turned on the switch pretty much confirms things. With the switch on it just makes the resistance to ground even less and the light gets brighter as a result of that. The bridge to ground is close to the switches.
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08-12-2015, 11:51 AM | #3 | |
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Quote:
Very much appreciated! |
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08-12-2015, 01:47 PM | #4 |
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Scfount, How are the map lights? Are they bright? Are they a warm white or a cool white? I am thinking about getting those and wondering how they are.
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08-12-2015, 02:23 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
As for the type of white, I'd say it's more of a pure white, where stock is a warm white, and a cool white would have some blue-ish effects. On SubiSpeeds site there are some helpful pics and an install video that compares them and should give you a better idea. If I get mine back to normal again, I am going to pickup some of the OLM Style Series LED bulbs. Hope that helps! |
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08-12-2015, 02:51 PM | #6 | |
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08-13-2015, 04:28 PM | #7 | |
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All I altered/bent when installing the new bulbs were the prongs you see highlighted in the photo below - The two yellow boxes in the photo below indicate the connection points that operate the map lights. If I only plug in the upper connection (two metal prongs, very close to the bulb) then the lights toggle on/off (but don't turn on when I open the door). Once I plug in the lower connection (wrapped with foam wrapping), then they both turn on, and stay on, toggling between bright and brighter. If I only plug in the lower (foam wrapped) connection, they do not work at all. Not sure if you see anything off/wrong here Cougar, but you are much more knowledgeable than I, and I appreciate any help you can provide. Thank you again! |
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08-13-2015, 05:22 PM | #8 |
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From what you say it seems to me that the trouble is with the wiring that connects to the foam connector. Check the insulation on the wires coming from the middle of the module. Make sure they are not getting pinched as they pass by the corner of the plastic on the right, just above the ty-wrap. I think the device in the middle may be a IR sensor but not sure of that. If you don't find any problems with those wires then I would have to say the trouble is in the door ground wire that connects to that module via the foam connector. Those are the wires going to the outer metal strips of the module and fastened in the middle of the strips. Power must get to the lights via the inside metal strips of the bulbs and the upper connector that the other switches tie to. Since the doors operate those lights also then one of the doors may be causing the issue. The door switches make a ground connection also to turn on the interior lights.
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08-13-2015, 05:57 PM | #9 |
Trust no one
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The automatic functions of the map lights are controlled by the body module. It's possible something is wrong with it. If the dome light goes on and off properly when the doors are opened and closed you know the door switches are working properly.
The switches are on the ground side. With the switches in the off/open position the body module provides an alternate ground path to turn the lights on, this is presumably what is happening if the wiring is intact. |
08-15-2015, 05:17 PM | #10 |
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Mulder is right except that I do not think there is anything wrong with the BCM. Because the BCM is a solid state switch, it relies on a small current to turn off an output completely. Your LED retrofits are not the same kind of load that an incan bulb is. The incan bulbs provided resistance that allows the BCM's solid state output to completely switch "off" (technically, since your ground is being switched, the BCM output should be going "high" which would put 12VDC on both sides of the lamp, causing the net voltage to be 0).
A quick, easy fix would be to install a resistor. You may need to play around with values a bit, but I would suggest starting with (1) 100 ohm 2 watt resistor. You'll only need 1 resistor. The resistor will only "waste" power when the lights are on, but will provide the path the BCM needs to "turn off" (go high) completely. If 100 ohms works, good. If it doesn't, you could try a lower value until it starts to work, but remember to use "Ohm's Law" to determine a proper wattage rating for the resistor. And since the resistor will get very warm when lights are on, be sure it is not resting against plastic or fabric. |
08-18-2015, 12:05 PM | #11 | |
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The dome light is working properly, with an LED or Incan bulb (Incan bulb is in right now). Also, all the wires look great. No pinching anywhere. I am also curious as to what you all think caused this? Was it the LED bulb and the different load? The fact that I left the bulb out for the day? When I bent the brackets that hold the bulb? I am just very confused as to why this happened on such an easy install item. Thanks again for all your input everyone, really appreciate it! |
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08-19-2015, 04:58 AM | #12 |
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I'm not sure what caused the problem to happen. I don't see how you could have caused the problem by adding the other lights unless they draw a lot more current than the original ones. The module is most likely under the dash but not sure where it would be.
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08-19-2015, 06:25 AM | #13 |
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The module is in the driver kick panel area. However it's not something you can easily replace yourself because it has to be programmed using a Subaru Monitor tool. Not to mention it likely isn't cheap, and you don't know for certain it's bad. I just put that out there as a possibility since the BCM does control the lights.
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09-09-2015, 05:55 PM | #14 |
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Same issue
Did you figure out this problem yet? I am having the same issue. My left one will not turn off. If I press it on it just becomes brighter. The right one is permanently off but when I went to remove both bulbs it was still super hot which tells me power is still flowing to that bulb. I would really like to resolve this issue too. For now I removed both map lights. My dome light works fine.
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09-09-2015, 09:37 PM | #15 | |
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09-09-2015, 10:23 PM | #16 |
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Not sure
I installed mine months ago and never had issue. This week I installed a TBE and stage 2 pro tuned it. I drove this morning in the dark fine but when I was coming home I noticed my left side was on and will not turn off. My right side was turned off and permanently off. I tried reinstalling the OEM bulb on both sides and it is doing it to both sides. I am guessing my right bulb burned out already. It will not turn on on my left side either. I rarely turn these lights on but this morning I remember turning on the left side for about 10 seconds while I looked for my ID. I doubt that is when it happened.
I emailed subispeed but I don't believe I will get any answers from them. I honestly think its the bulbs themselves. They emit much stronger current. My car guru friend will look at my fuse box/engine bay/ ect tomorrow to see if he can find the problem (shorted or blown fuse) Personally I am discouraging people buying these bulbs until we find out if its the cars themselves or if it is just these bulbs. So far OEM:0 OLM:2 |
09-09-2015, 11:26 PM | #17 | |
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Seriously
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09-11-2015, 01:31 PM | #18 |
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scfount,
In the last picture you show of the panel I can see the two ground wires that tie to each of the two lights. It looks like they are black wires and tie to a common point of the foam plug. If that is correct use a voltmeter and check for voltage on the pin connection in the other end of that plug that the black wires tie to. Use a good ground point for your meter reference point (black meter lead). If you have no voltage on that lead then check the resistance to ground on that lead. I suspect you will see a low resistance to ground, meaning it is making connection to ground and that is how the lights turn on when you connect the foam plug together. I assume the map lights have power to them at all times so you can use them when the car is OFF. You stated earlier that the map lights work okay using the switches until you plug the foam plug together. The map lights use a switched connection to ground in order to turn them on so the foam plug has to be supplying the ground to the lights. I also assume that the lead in question ties to the module that Mulder made us aware of and if so the solid state driver switch inside the module for the map lights may be damaged and is shorted to ground. If the new lights require more current than the transistor switch can handle damage like this can happen. |
03-17-2016, 07:25 PM | #19 |
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Subispeed
Just a bump on this thread. I did talk to subispeed at the time and gave them this thread to read the issue themselves. They just responded as "we sold thousands of these and people are not having issues so its not us""we need more diagnostic from Subaru" answer.
There are other threads that are reporting not only the dome light, but stereo/remote lock going out and dealerships are pointing fingers to OLM products installed on those cars (C light harness, OLM HID bulbs). So far every thread with some kind of electrical issue have some OLM mod installed. Alot of these threads have a point. LED light uses less current thus theoretically have less chance to upset fuse/electrical components. It is hard to blame OLM for that reason. I'm a guy that follows statistics. Ill stay stock for now. Last edited by koalafury; 03-19-2016 at 10:24 PM. |
03-18-2016, 12:31 PM | #20 | |
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They already replaced someones BIU unit before from bad OLM bulbs...
I'll try to find that post edit: tricky quoting from a closed thread.. Quote:
Last edited by amiexploited; 03-18-2016 at 01:16 PM. |
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03-19-2016, 10:27 PM | #21 |
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Thanks for getting me that post. I have contacted Subispeed with that thread quote. I have not taken it into Subaru yet because I have seen people go in for lighting issure and having their warranty not cover it/ voided because they used aftermarket lights. (specifically OLM products) My local subaru is very famous for voiding warranties so I tend to stay away from their service department.
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03-21-2016, 02:49 PM | #22 | |
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Quote:
Hello Jason, I would recommend going back to stock lighting and then going into your dealer. We replaced two BIU's on us in the past giving the customer the benefit of the doubt. After further research on our end, we are no longer replacing those due to the fact there are too many variables and those two cases seemed to be user installation errors that could have been avoided. We strongly encourage anyone who has aftermarket parts to go back to stock or ask your dealer before installing those parts if it voids the warranty. That is not our responsibility to inform the customer that non OEM parts have the potential of voiding the factory warranty. To avoid absolutely any and all issues, we would suggest playing it safe and putting the car back to stock before going to the dealer. They have a tendency to blame aftermarkets parts whether or not they are the cause to the problem at hand. Regards, Casey ---------------------------------------------------------------- I guess I am out of luck. Have you seen the installation video on these map lights? If you can hold a flat head you can install these. Its so easy. It seems to me that it is implied here that most likely I installed it wrong too OR Subaru just makes really terrible BIU. I heard alot of great customer service stories about Subispeed but I have yet to see anything but cut and dry responses. I'll just take it as a loss. |
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04-07-2016, 06:08 PM | #23 |
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10-01-2016, 04:59 PM | #24 |
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same problem on my 2015 Forester XT.. my map lights don't seem to turn off when my dome light turns off. Tried all kinds of troubelshooting in overhead box, dont see any issues. Aftermarket JDM Astar LED bulbs.
its my BCM, i may stop by the dealer. Last edited by jobber; 10-02-2016 at 11:01 PM. |
03-16-2021, 08:27 PM | #25 |
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Map Lights Not Turning Off
Did anyone ever get a solution to this problem? Of course, one of my map lights went out, I got the LED replacement from O'Reilly's and changed them. put the fuse back in and now they don't turn off. I returned them and got the normal stock light and they still stay on. This is on a 2017 WRX, no mods.
So of course, I'm just trying to find a solution. Thanks for your help. |
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