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Old 01-13-2021, 01:29 PM   #15876
JP Chestnut
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Originally Posted by Rice & Gravy View Post
Crazy. I feel like it would break with an inadvertent twist though.

Ok folks, help me out here. It's taken a lot of trial and error, but I have come to the conclusion that other than my Aqua Terra on the rubber strap, I just don't like wearing watches that are not on a bracelet. And that bracelet MUST have an on-the-fly adjustable clasp.

So what meets my criteria below?
  • 41mm or less
  • Under 14mm tall
  • 48/49mm lug to lug or less
  • Bracelet with on-the-fly adjustable clasp (this is a MUST)
  • Max of about $2k (new or used)
  • Accurate automatic movement (regulated by maker or Elabore grade ETA (or better))
  • 150M or better WR, ideally with screw in crown for added security. But doesn't necessarily have to be a "diver"
  • Arabic dial would be good, or dots/circles, but I would like to avoid stick indices or triangles.
  • NOT a Seiko.


So far I have a few possibilities that meet most of the criteria -
Halios Fairwind,
Zelos (but already have one),
Monta
Omega - Maybe an SMPc but not sure I can get one as low as 2k. Planet Ocean?? Also 40mm Speedy Racing (not Reduced), but doubt I can get that anywhere near budget.
The Chris Wards in the c65 cases work too. Unfortunately I already know the 40mm Trident C60s don't fit me right on the bracelet. Frankly, I am about this >< close to buying Orbital's Sandhurst.

What am I missing?

If you could swing another grand, that would open up a lot of options including the IWC Mark whatever, which has an incredible bracelet/clasp with on the fly adjustment.
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Old 01-13-2021, 01:49 PM   #15877
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That's a good point about another grand, and I could just save a while and see what opens up to me after a while. Frankly, this merry-go-round of watches needs to stop. I don't get much joy out of it anymore, and the obsessing is ridiculous. I've figured out what I like and want and think I am close to done, so I'm hoping I can find the ideal piece that fits my criteria. Yeah, I knew about those IWC and sort of ruled them out due to price and WR. They do appeal to me as does a Speedy whatever.
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Old 01-13-2021, 01:57 PM   #15878
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IMO, $2K is kind of a dead spot in the used market. It's too much to spend on a cheap watch but not really enough to get you into a nice Omega SMP or something like that. That goes doubly so if you are immediately writing off Seiko. It's too bad Sinn has gotten so much more expensive while keeping their same bracelet/clasp forever. Otherwise, that would be a perfect option for you.

I hear you on tuning out from watches. I have a bunch of nice ones, but now that a Rolex Sub costs $10,000 used and is impossible to buy from an AD... I just don't have mind space for that nonsense.
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Old 01-13-2021, 02:38 PM   #15879
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I would go Fairwind.
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Old 01-13-2021, 02:46 PM   #15880
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True on the dead spot. I have a 2254.50 SMP and an Aqua Terra, as well as a Gshock and a nice Hamilton I use as a dress watch. Honestly, that SHOULD be all set, but I want one more on bracelet with the clasp I want. Damn I hate this "hobby".

Quote:
Originally Posted by SC WRX View Post
I would go Fairwind.
Yeah I really like the Fairwind (despite no date) and the upcoming bracelet looks amazing. That would be my first choice at this point, with 2nd option being nothing at all and saving for a while.
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Old 01-13-2021, 03:40 PM   #15881
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Originally Posted by Rice & Gravy View Post
True on the dead spot. I have a 2254.50 SMP and an Aqua Terra, as well as a Gshock and a nice Hamilton I use as a dress watch. Honestly, that SHOULD be all set, but I want one more on bracelet with the clasp I want. Damn I hate this "hobby".



Yeah I really like the Fairwind (despite no date) and the upcoming bracelet looks amazing. That would be my first choice at this point, with 2nd option being nothing at all and saving for a while.
I don't like the fit of the Halios bracelet, it would drive me crazy that it looks like I sourced my own, the fit at the end of the lugs is too different. From that list of 3 I would choose a Monta for better attention to detail.

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Old 01-13-2021, 03:53 PM   #15882
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If it helps at all, that's a prototype bracelet. It's changed since then for a number of reasons, and I am guessing that is one of them. There is a video from Average Bros that shows the new bracelet that is about to ship prior purchasers and available when he opens purchasing again. It's changed slightly and the endlink now sits inside/even with the lug end and the lug tip overhands just a tad. Not uneven and jutting out like is shown there, it looks much more integrated.

I really like what Monta's doing, especially now that the adjustable clasp is available on all models. Used they may be a good option. I feel like brand new it's a lot of $$ for what it is. I had a Triumph briefly (pre-clasp) and the detail and quality is top notch IMO. I like the quirkiness of the bent GMT hands on the Atlas.
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Old 01-13-2021, 03:58 PM   #15883
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Have you considered an Aquanaut from Patek Philippe?
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Old 01-13-2021, 04:06 PM   #15884
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Have you considered an Aquanaut from Patek Philippe?
I did but found it too plebeian.
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Old 01-13-2021, 04:16 PM   #15885
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Have you considered an Aquanaut from Patek Philippe?
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Old 01-13-2021, 04:58 PM   #15886
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Originally Posted by HpiRally View Post
Have you considered an Aquanaut from Patek Philippe?
they're ok but surprisingly don't feel that sturdy (a real tinny rotor buzz in contrast to the 7750's whirl). would lean Royal Oak for angular funk if i had to have one in the rotation (but for now i'll wait for my Halios bracelet in a week or so!)
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Old 01-13-2021, 05:14 PM   #15887
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Nautilus or bust I suppose?
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Old 01-13-2021, 06:11 PM   #15888
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Nautilus or bust I suppose?
Clasp is unacceptable.

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Old 01-13-2021, 06:14 PM   #15889
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Clasp is unacceptable.

And people give grand seiko a hard time.
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Old 01-13-2021, 06:29 PM   #15890
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Originally Posted by dorikin View Post
they're ok but surprisingly don't feel that sturdy (a real tinny rotor buzz in contrast to the 7750's whirl). would lean Royal Oak for angular funk if i had to have one in the rotation (but for now i'll wait for my Halios bracelet in a week or so!)
Looking forward to pictures and hearing your impressions.

Quote:
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Clasp is unacceptable.

No adjustment in a bracelet clasp (half links don't count) should be against horological law!
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Old 01-14-2021, 02:13 PM   #15891
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I bought this around 1.5 years ago but have not had much occasion to wear it. At first, I held off wearing it until I sold off a similar watch in my collection. Then COVID. Recently I became enamored with the Reverso, even went so far as to try some on at the JLC boutique in Beverly Hills. But, just as I was about to take pictures of my Tank to put it up for sale to partially finance a Reverso, I put it on and realized, even though the Reverso is horologically a better watch, I really like the dial and the thinness of the Cartier more than the JLC. So, I've decided I'm keeping the Tank and no longer in the Reverso market. I'm bailing on the idea of picking up a Speedy Pro too. I think my next watch will be a Seiko SPB187 and after that I'll be pretty content with my collection.

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Old 01-14-2021, 02:40 PM   #15892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SC WRX View Post
I bought this around 1.5 years ago but have not had much occasion to wear it. At first, I held off wearing it until I sold off a similar watch in my collection. Then COVID. Recently I became enamored with the Reverso, even went so far as to try some on at the JLC boutique in Beverly Hills. But, just as I was about to take pictures of my Tank to put it up for sale to partially finance a Reverso, I put it on and realized, even though the Reverso is horologically a better watch, I really like the dial and the thinness of the Cartier more than the JLC. So, I've decided I'm keeping the Tank and no longer in the Reverso market. I'm bailing on the idea of picking up a Speedy Pro too. I think my next watch will be a Seiko SPB187 and after that I'll be pretty content with my collection.

That is pure class right there. Good call keeping it. And I like the SPB187 too. Today realized that the SPB187 bracelet (as well as the SBDCc62MAS) accepts the marine master clasp. Maybe Seiko is an option for me after all.
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Old 01-14-2021, 02:57 PM   #15893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rice & Gravy View Post
I have a 2254.50 SMP ...
Have you thought about just fitting the new style adjustable Omega clasp to your 2254? It's almost a direct swap -- you just need to change the little bracelet links nearest the clasp to the new style.

Part numbers are floating around online, but it's around $300 all in.
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Old 01-14-2021, 03:01 PM   #15894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rice & Gravy View Post
No adjustment in a bracelet clasp (half links don't count) should be against horological law!
The claps also uses (or used last I handled one) a friction fitting so it wears out if you actually treat it like a real watch.

The Nautilus is my number 1 "looks great on the internet, but huge let down in person" watch. I didn't want one when offered at MSRP a million years ago, and them increasing in street price 700% hasn't changed my opinion.
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Old 01-14-2021, 03:10 PM   #15895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JP Chestnut View Post
Have you thought about just fitting the new style adjustable Omega clasp to your 2254? It's almost a direct swap -- you just need to change the little bracelet links nearest the clasp to the new style.

Part numbers are floating around online, but it's around $300 all in.
Oh yeah, I have that already and it's amazing. I blame that for spoiling me from wearing a bracelet that doesn't have it.
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Old 01-14-2021, 03:36 PM   #15896
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I like watching Jenni's videos because... reasons.


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Old 01-14-2021, 03:42 PM   #15897
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Originally Posted by HpiRally View Post
And people give grand seiko a hard time.
Seriously tho, why Seiko doesn't incorp microadjust in their GS clasps

I say this because when I got my watch band originally fitted, they took out 4 links and I thought it was a pretty secure fit, but later I notice it started to hurt my wrist as my forearm would swell during the day. I had to put one link back in and now its slightly 'too loose' and I have to play with the band and slide it down further on my wrist so it doesn't flop about.

My Shinola OTOH does have a microadj slider and comfortable fitment is never an issue on any given time of day.
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Old 01-14-2021, 04:10 PM   #15898
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bracelet will never fit perfectly in all occasions. best solution is the Pelagos expansion spring which you don't have to adjust.

second best solution: adjust bracelet to slightly loose (ie: comfy when your wrist is swollen from work/heat) then put a piece of glossy scotch tape on the caseback. the tape acts like a non-slip pad and keeps the watch head centered 90% of the time while allowing slightly loose fit
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Old 01-14-2021, 04:15 PM   #15899
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best solution is the Pelagos expansion spring which you don't have to adjust.
Simplicity and durability is important. An EZ link solves 95% of the problem while allowing for a small clasp and not adding anything that can break. My Daytona has a tiny clasp and it always fits.
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Old 01-14-2021, 07:07 PM   #15900
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Originally Posted by Rice & Gravy View Post
What am I missing?
Have you looked at the Formex Essence 39? 39mm, 10mm thickness, 20mm lugs, 45mm lug to lug, COSC, quick microadjust straps bracelet and leather, 100m WR, and preorder for $1400.
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