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Old 08-30-2013, 12:05 PM   #26
lacuna0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VpointVick View Post
Change oil, disconnect coil wire or remove fuse to disable ignition. Crank the engine over by hand at least one full revolution to make sure that the rings aren't rusted to the cylinder walls, then crank the motor on the starter for a bit. It's best if you pull the valve cover so that a helper can watch for oil flow out of the valvetrain. Then you can put it all back together and fire it up.

I'd change the fuel first, and your tires are likely to fall apart in the very near future.
This. And I'd bring a spare batter because the one in it is probably long dead.
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:11 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lacuna0 View Post
This. And I'd bring a spare batter because the one in it is probably long dead.
Yeah you'll need the spare batter to make some more pancakes. You can't trust batter that's been sitting in a car for 5 years - it's probably dried up.
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:11 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Jack View Post
Take breaker bar and 32mm socket. Put socket on CV axle end. Pick up whole car by that nut and carry it to car dealer. Drop car and tell dealer that you'd like to trade the car for a new car.
Wish I could. Not i the budget right now unfortunately. It's in pretty good shape for it's age. There's just a handful of things it needs to have done. I can do most of it.
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:14 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by lacuna0 View Post
This. And I'd bring a spare batter because the one in it is probably long dead.
carb or fuel injection on this heap?
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:17 PM   #30
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Yeah you'll need the spare batter to make some more pancakes. You can't trust batter that's been sitting in a car for 5 years - it's probably dried up.
I've got some spare batter just for you.

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carb or fuel injection on this heap?
IDK ask talapia. For his sanity I hope for FI.
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:21 PM   #31
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The right tools for the job. Sometimes the right tool is a ****ing 5lbs hammer to get rusted cv joints out of a hub.

If you have an OBD2 car, just get a GD code reader. They're cheap and they pay for themselves the first use even if you were just going to go to autozone and get the codes read for free... saves gas and time.

Don't be afraid of the car, it's just a machine, fix it!
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:34 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VpointVick View Post
Change oil, disconnect coil wire or remove fuse to disable ignition. Crank the engine over by hand at least one full revolution to make sure that the rings aren't rusted to the cylinder walls, then crank the motor on the starter for a bit. It's best if you pull the valve cover so that a helper can watch for oil flow out of the valvetrain. Then you can put it all back together and fire it up.

I'd change the fuel first, and your tires are likely to fall apart in the very near future.
Before this step, I recommend removing the spark plugs, draining the oil and filling the engine with Marvel Mystery Oi, in the crankcase and thru the spark plug holes as well. Let it sit for a day or two and manually turn the engine over by hand (its going to make a mess). This way, if the rings have any corrosion due to condensation, the MMO will help them slide free instead of breaking free. Once you are certain it turns by hand, drain the crankcase and fill with oil, use a siphon to remove as much MMO as possible from the head and then turn it over with the starter WITH THE SPARKPLUGS REMOVED. Its going to make a mess. Put in new plugs and try to fire it up. When it fires, it is going to smoke. Like crazy for a while. Once smoke has cleared somewhat, remove plugs, clean and/or replace with new and drive the piss out of it.

I learned this from a tech named Lugard Dey. He was from Guiana and could fix anything with an engine, the guy was brilliant. I got a 1985 Toyota Cressida for 50.00 that had been sitting for at least three years with a broken timing belt and crank pulley out of alignment. It had 420,000 miles but the body and interior was pristine. He told me to do this while I was fixing the timing belt and crank pulley, and then go from there. I followed his directions and the car fired up on the first shot.

I sold it, regrettably, in 2009, still running on the original engine, for 2000.00. Apparently its still on the road in Jacksonville, NC.
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:45 PM   #33
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When changing the oil filter on an is300 expect to get oil every****ingwhere.

Pro Tips - Tips from the Pros
Much more pertinent to this community: Expect the same on a Miata.
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:51 PM   #34
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Much more pertinent to this community: Expect the same on a Miata.
Call your local Matco man and see if they still have the oil filter shaped funnels to drain the oil correctly. You need the same thing on any newer Toyota/Lexus product with the cartridge type filter on the bottom of the engine. Same as Tacoma's with the filter on the top. I also recommend buying the correct oil filter wrench for these newer cars with the cartridge type oil filter. I made a ton of money on cars folks brought to Walmart or did it at home with a set of channel locks and broke the plastic housing.
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:01 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Obnoxio View Post
Call your local Matco man and see if they still have the oil filter shaped funnels to drain the oil correctly. You need the same thing on any newer Toyota/Lexus product with the cartridge type filter on the bottom of the engine. Same as Tacoma's with the filter on the top. I also recommend buying the correct oil filter wrench for these newer cars with the cartridge type oil filter. I made a ton of money on cars folks brought to Walmart or did it at home with a set of channel locks and broke the plastic housing.
The problem on the Miata is that the oil filter is directly above the front subframe, and there is limited enough room where I don't think one of those funnels will fit and catch all the oil. The big reason for the mess is that by virtue of it being directly above the front subframe, some of the oil coming out of the filter will drip down onto the subframe, and drip off the subframe wherever happens to be the lowest point, which is usually about 1 1/2" beyond where you put the oil drain pan.
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:10 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by kfoote View Post
The problem on the Miata is that the oil filter is directly above the front subframe, and there is limited enough room where I don't think one of those funnels will fit and catch all the oil. The big reason for the mess is that by virtue of it being directly above the front subframe, some of the oil coming out of the filter will drip down onto the subframe, and drip off the subframe wherever happens to be the lowest point, which is usually about 1 1/2" beyond where you put the oil drain pan.
it's also the reason why the only thing not rusted on my miata is the front subframe!
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:52 PM   #37
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You guys thought about punching a hole in the filter, at the top, and letting the oil drain back in the crankcase?
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:31 PM   #38
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You guys thought about punching a hole in the filter, at the top, and letting the oil drain back in the crankcase?
Not sure on the miata but on the is300 it sits at a 45* angle so anything that was going to drain out already has. It's what's left and the goddamn subframe that's the problem. And the strut tower. And the tranny dipstick. I could go on but I'll just get pissed off.
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:47 PM   #39
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Not sure on the miata but on the is300 it sits at a 45* angle so anything that was going to drain out already has. It's what's left and the goddamn subframe that's the problem. And the strut tower. And the tranny dipstick. I could go on but I'll just get pissed off.
In the Miata, it's horizontal, so half the oil would still be in the filter.
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Old 09-05-2013, 10:02 PM   #40
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well, finally got my steering knuckles back from good ole uncle joe...took the old bearings out and pressed the new ones for $40. Not bad obama....

left bearing was reaaalll bad. like cracked housing and half worn flat balls inside...

got it put back on tonight. pretty easy... gonna need a new left tie rod end soon...

other than that, went well...saturday or sunday the right one is going on....wish i had more money, i'd do new tie rod ends, brakes and errthang all at once....
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Old 09-05-2013, 10:06 PM   #41
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What a timely bump.

X-posted from gripes thread.


Replaced my spark plugs and now the ****ing car will start, idle for a second or two, then die. I can increase the RPM but it feels like it's choking and it dies as soon as I let off.

When I pulled them again today to double check on one side of the engine the plugs were already turning black but on the other side they were fine. It idles normal and feels like it wants to run but then it just dies.
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Old 09-05-2013, 10:08 PM   #42
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weird....did you pull a vacuum hose lose or something? maybe a sensor wire? How's the ground?
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Old 09-05-2013, 10:10 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Meat Supply View Post
weird....did you pull a vacuum hose lose or something? maybe a sensor wire? How's the ground?
I've kept looking around the engine since it seems I was just being careless and knocked something off but I can't find anything that looks like it came unplugged.

Guess I gotta have someone come over so we can pull them one by one and make sure they're all sparking properly.
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Old 09-05-2013, 10:14 PM   #44
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Vacuum leak or coil/distributor related. Look for loose hoses.
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:00 PM   #45
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042, did you ever figure out that problem with your car? what was it?

so i needed to replace the driver side outer tie rod end in the ol' saturn . so u went to loosen the tension nut or whatever it's called, just the pressure of twisting that popped the ball out of the socket. i was like :whoa: I knew it was bad, but dayummm!!

I had a hell of a time getting what was keft of the tie rod end off. It involved 2 sets of vice grips, car jack, and a 3 pound hammer....I was sort of worried i wouldn't get it done....but i got it. made a huge difference though. after a little test spin, i noticed just about immediately.

hard to tell, but it was pretty shot...
v

ibnicemcdonaldsbag
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:17 PM   #46
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My wife's car has a leak in the flex pipe. Dealer says they have to replace the whole thing, at a cost of $1200, but I think a muffler shop could just weld a new pipe onto the catalytic converter for about two fiddy or so.

What would OT do? It's a 10-year-old Camry, she only plans to keep it for another 3 years maybe.
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:21 PM   #47
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how bad is the leak? is it noisy, or is it keeping you from passing any inspections? I've heard of places just replacing the flex section. I had a GF once that had a similar problem, and they told her it would cost $$$ but then her dad found a garage that did it for like 1/$$$ like they do it all the time...
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:23 PM   #48
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Dealership isn't going to do anything short of replacing the whole works with a factory part. Go to the muffler shop.

Meat, that was probably pushing that a bit too far. You're lucky you didn't end up in a ditch!
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:27 PM   #49
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My wife's car has a leak in the flex pipe. Dealer says they have to replace the whole thing, at a cost of $1200, but I think a muffler shop could just weld a new pipe onto the catalytic converter for about two fiddy or so.

What would OT do? It's a 10-year-old Camry, she only plans to keep it for another 3 years maybe.
My wife's Outback had a plugged cat, replaced under warantee. So 2 years later, and 1k out of emissions warantee, it had a crack in the cat and the flex area (stupid design.....) has a hole along one of the seams. I drop it, weld the cat section, clamp in a flex pipe where the old brass flex was and drive it until I traded it in. Stupid Subaru flex sections are stupid.

Have them weld it.

....or look for a new cat yourself. Dealer quoted $1050 replacement. Subarugenuineparts on their site is only $350 plus shipping. For a Camry, maybe it would be even less.
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:28 PM   #50
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No inspection or anything, you can hear it when the car's sitting still and I think some exhaust is getting in the cabin, which would explain why my wife is so dumb... Or maybe that's genetic.

But anyways my concern was mainly whether that was considered a ****ty/half-assed repair which I'm still kind of OK with as long as it lasts a good 3 years. Sounds like it will.
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