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Old 08-07-2018, 05:31 PM   #26
cianuro
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So... Exactly 3 months after I started using a new key, the issue is slowly starting again. Happened on August 4th while I was downshifting to slow down (car ran a light close to me, so I was forced to slow down), and again today when I went half throttle on 2nd gear.

Iíll have to wait till next week, but Iíll be taking it to the dealer to have them scan it and see if they find something.

Again, using a different key made a difference since it went 3 full months without the issue happening. Still, no CEL and no indication that itís going to happen. I just hope the Subaru diagnostic Tool will tell me something.

Iíll update again after I visit the dealer.
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Old 08-10-2018, 03:51 PM   #27
cianuro
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Hereís a quick vid showing the Cobb V3 flashing while I move the key. This is what led me to try a different key. Iím getting stalls (losing RPM signal) even after being stopped at a red light for a while.


A friend owns a 2014 WRX and his V3 wouldnít do this while turning the key. It would stay on whatever gauges he had on display until it detected the car being completely off, then turn off all by itself as it should.
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Old 08-18-2018, 08:07 AM   #28
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Finally went to the dealer, only to get bad news. They plugged it to the Subaru Monitor and told me a whole bunch of CAN bus codes were activated, stored within the memory, and every time a CAN code was activated a reset command was sent to the memory. This is what I was seeing when the Temp needle jumped to High every time the engine stalled.

Iím no longer under warranty... They asked if I had a reflash, which I explained it had been uninstalled prior to giving them the car, and they said that every reflash done left traces that activated the CAN codes, which is why they knew reflashes were done.

Basically, theyíre saying the ecu is bad and needs replacement. They quoted the repair at $1600 for the ecu, plus $70 for installation and reprogramming. Obviously, $1600 is way too much, and I can source a brand new oem ecu for a lot less. They donít like the idea of me bringing the ecu, for obvious reason ($$$), so they started giving excuses as to how they canít guarantee the repair will work. In other words, if I purchase the ecu with them, the issue will be fixed, but if I bring the ecu, theyíre not sure if the issue will be fixed... What?!

Since they said it has to be ordered by VIN number, Iíll do the same via subarugenuineparts.com and bring it to them with evidence. Iíll visit the dealer again on Monday to corroborate the part number I have matches what they have in their system so I can make an appointment.

Right now Iím working on getting the car back to stock, and all thatís left to replace is the Turbo and ebcs. Once the repair is done, the car will be left stock to sell or trade-in for a newer model.

Iíll update when the ecu is replaced.
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Old 11-12-2018, 04:18 PM   #29
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Another update... the ecu has not been replaced...

Iíve been wrapping my mind around selling the car because the issue was driving me crazy, so I decided to start putting oem parts back little by little. 2 weeks ago I decided to replace the grimmspeed ebcs, making way to go back to the TD04 afterwards. Since then, there have been no more stalls, or the ďhiccupsĒ it gave at idle.

I did get one hiccup at a red light a week after replacing the ebcs, where the revs dipped a little, but not to zero, the engine didnít stall and the CEL didnít flash. The car ran a bit rough at idle, and seemed like it wasnít controlling idle revs. When I checked my ebcs connections, the T hose on the compressor side had a bit of a rip, and to make matters worse, the coolant hose right on top of it was leaking a bit over that hose. Made a new piece of hose, swapped the boost pill to it and repaired the leak on the coolant hose, so now idle behaves normally.

Itís only been 2 weeks since the ebcs was replaced and no more stalls, but this issue has fooled me before, so Iím still vigilant and my hopes are not completely up yet.

I had never thought of replacing the ebcs because I never saw the stall as a boost cut. I still have to do some more testing to be completely sure. Iíll update accordingly.
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Old 11-12-2018, 04:57 PM   #30
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If that was the fix, are you thinking of keeping the car or still selling it?

I would be so frustrated to be having to keeping doing all that trouble shooting with almost no sign of isolating the issue. I would have thrown up my hands by the time I you investigated the ecu and said "Fonk it!" and returned to stock, sold off the parts and the car and bought a newer wrx. But you kept going and maybe found the issue. So, keep it or sell it?

Let us know how you decide to go from here .

BTW, I owned an 08 WRX as well. Kept it stock and traded it in in 2013.
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Old 11-13-2018, 03:29 AM   #31
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My thoughts were trading it in for whatever money they gave, hoping no stalls happen during their testing, and not look back. I was looking into the Ď15 WRX because thatís the closest to budget Iím able to get, but seeing as it was still going to be tight, I just kept testing stuff to at least be able to drive it normally. Either way, most of the stuff I did was already necessary.

As for it being the fix, my hopes are not completely up yet. When I started using a new key and fob, the car went exactly 3 months without a stall, so at 2 weeks Iím still not fully convinced, but Iím getting there. Iíve been putting the car through the same conditions that used to cause the stall and still havenít gotten one. Time will tell.

Iíll update if I see any changes.
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Old 11-18-2018, 06:38 AM   #32
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So far, no more issues, no more stalls. Spoke with Grimmspeed, and same as every other person, mechanic, tuner, etc., Iíve spoken to, theyíve never seen that issue. They gave me some pointers as to how to test it, but I havenít had the chance to do anything yet. Iíve only been able to check impedance on the ebcs, and itís within range. Iíll have some instrumentation guys from work do some more tests on it as I need to apply 12v to it and find some way to log behavior.

My theory is that the ecu doesnít understand the ebcs, or itís not communicating with it correctly, so when I get a boost cut, the ecu doesnít know why or what to do, so it cuts the engine. This is based on the fact that no DTCs are displayed, but the dealer found that the CAN codes are all activated and not able to reset. The dealer scanned the ecu with the grimmspeed still connected, but AP uninstalled, so whatever tests they performed couldíve caused an error because of the aftermarket ebcs.

Since Iím not planning on putting the grimmspeed ebcs back unless I get a new one, Iíll probably just disassemble this one to at least check it internally for issues.

I have a friend with the same grimmspeed ebcs, so Iíll probably try to test his on my car and see if itíll run with no issues. If it works with no issues, Iíll just get a new one and run the corresponding tune. If not, Iíll have to check the tune, or have it retuned. I had tried different tunes and had the same issue, so I donít think the tune is the problem, but no loss in trying.

Iíve run the car under all the same conditions that used to cause the issue and so far it hasnít happened again. Iím getting more and more convinced every day that the issue is gone, or at least that the ebcs was the cause, but Iím not 100% yet. Itís not that Iím seeing odd behavior or getting ďhiccupsĒ, but I still donít trust the car as itís fooled me before.

Iíll update when I get more data.
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Old 12-11-2018, 08:39 PM   #33
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Updating... After a few weeks with no issues, I started getting ďhiccupsĒ again. Since Iíve been using the stock ebcs, the issue is different. I donít get stalls at wot, but Iíve gotten 2 stalls when coming to a stop.

Now, while Iím driving normally (cruising), the revs start hesitating, not dropping to zero as before, but the relays under the glove box start clicking really fast. I attached a pic of said relays. From what Iíve found through Google and the FSM, this relay box houses the fuel pump relay, O2 sensor relay, IG relay and throttle control relay. What I canít seem to find is a diagram that shows which is which. Does anyone have a diagram showing which relay does what?
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Old 12-12-2018, 08:23 AM   #34
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Tried something just now...

Connected the green plugs for Test Mode and ran a code scan on the Cobb AP. Key was in the ON position, engine not running. Got the following codes:

P0140: rear o2 sensor no activity detected
P0852: neutral switch input high
P1152: front o2 sensor circuit range/perf low
P1153: front o2 sensor circuit range/perf high

Read that the P0852 causes the hill start, vdc and abs lights turn on if it happens while driving, which tends to happens when it gets a hiccup. I replaced my clutch in Jan 2017, but I havenít found any loose plugs. I also read that this code should only apply to auto tranny only, but I found a few threads of it happening in STiís. Is this switch serviceable? Does anyone know where itís located or how to identify it?

As for the other 3 codes, Iím in doubt. Did they pop up because of the test mode and the engine is off? Or are they pending codes that activated at any given moment and never got reset?

I preformed an ecu reset while in Test Mode, but didnít scan it again. Iíll give it a few days of driving and do the same process to see if I get the same results.

Another test I performed was using my Foresterís rear o2 sensor in the wrx. Apart from not getting any hiccups, the AF learning and correction were either too high positive or too high negative, so I didnít drive it and just put the stock one back in.
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Old 04-02-2019, 04:27 PM   #35
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Default 08 WRX Engine Stalls... No CEL

Another update...

After around 3 months of no issues, the issue started again, but it has only happened twice. I bought a scanner, iCarsoft HNM II, which has access to more than your regular OBD II scanner or Cobb AP. Codes found are on the Brake System and theyíre shown in the pics.

After some Googling I found a service bulleting from Subaru about this issue, so they knew about it and itís been going on since 2005, yet my local dealer had no idea about it. Hereís the service bulletin: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/n9...222648_sub.pdf

With my scanner, everything seems to point to the abs module being bad, or the speed sensors are having issues. The service bulletin is for AT vehicles, so the combinations of codes they mention donít apply to my car because I canít get AT codes. The B0221 code means an issue with the ABS module, and the C0047 means a fault in communication with the ecu, but they both show up under Brake System. When I clear the codes, the ABS light stays on for less than a minute after the VDC and Hill Assist lights turn off, which is another thing that points me to the ABS being bad.


Iíll order an ABS module when I get the chance to replace it to see if the problem persists. First Iíll check if the boards can be swapped without the need of removing the oil brake lines. Iíll keep updating as I keep testing.

Last edited by cianuro; 04-03-2019 at 06:43 PM.
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Old 04-25-2019, 10:47 AM   #36
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Reading the service bulletin I linked, I noticed that the diagnostic flowchart mentions ďlighting positionĒ, which to my best guess refers to the headlight levelers. I have oem levelers, but powered through the headlights fuse and no signal to the ecu. Based on that, I disconnected the whole thing and so far all Iím getting are fuel cuts without the Temp needle jumping to High, and the only code that pops up is the C0047.

Everywhere I look, that code means a bad ABS module. Iíll be ordering one soon to test and update accordingly.
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Old 04-25-2019, 06:36 PM   #37
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A friend of mine is getting the same code. Looking forward to the update.
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Old 04-26-2019, 07:23 AM   #38
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Default 08 WRX Engine Stalls... No CEL

Quote:
Originally Posted by 908VAL View Post
A friend of mine is getting the same code. Looking forward to the update.


The C0047? What symptoms is his car getting? Is he getting other codes? Auto or manual trans? What year model?
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Old 05-07-2019, 09:22 AM   #39
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To update...

The car gave a hiccup last week and when I scanned it a few days later, the only code present was the C0047. Last night it completely stalled, but the Temp needle didnít jump to High as in the video. I scanned it a few minutes after it happened, and again, the only code present was the C0047. Found a used ABS module on ebay and Iím waiting on a shipping quote. So far, everything points to the ABS module.

Side note... reading through the service bulletin again and again reminded me of a mod I did a few years back. I swapped my headlights for STi ones with oem levelers. Since my car didnít have them from factory, I had to dig through the service manual and forums to get them working. The service bulletin mentions checking for ďlighting positionĒ, which to my best guess means the levelers. I went over the installation and saw that I took the positive signal from the fuse box under the dash, using the ďtail light clearenceĒ fuse. Going over the service manual, this fuse is tied to the ABS system.

During the install, I first followed a forum guide, but they werenít working because 2 of the pins were inverted in the diagram shown in the forum thread. I gave it power with that wrong connection, so that mightíve caused something, but it didnít show up until about 3 years later. After I disabled the whole leveler system, I havenít seen the needle jump to High again, it took over a month for a stall to happen, and the hiccups have been a lot less.

Thereís a procedure on the service manual to test the pins on the ABS module, so once I get and install the replacement, Iíll do the procedure and see what I find.
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Old 05-07-2019, 04:04 PM   #40
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Another update...

A friend of mine that owns a Ď14 WRX came by today so I could scan his car and compare codes with my car. His car has no issues, no stalling, nada. Yet, all the same CAN codes I had the first time I used my new scanner were active on his WRX as well. This tells me that the ecu canít be the issue, which was the theory the dealer proposed and wanted $1600 just to check if that was the issue.

As I said, my friendís WRX has no issues, no stalling, etc., so this is another thing that points me to the ABS module being the culprit.

I already ordered a used ABS module to test. If youíre planning on doing the same, take note that youíll have to buy it by part number, not model and year. Part numbers vary between models and years, even though they all look the same. I corroborated this looking at my 2010 Forester and my friendís Ď14 WRX.

Itís been my experience that after replacing something, a sensor, wiring, etc., the car will show no symptoms for 2-3 months, then start the issues again out of nowhere and with a vengeance. Once I receive the ABS module and replace it, Iíll run it for a few months, testing behavior and scanning periodically to check if the issue is gone or different before providing another update.
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Old 06-01-2019, 04:53 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cianuro View Post
Updating... After a few weeks with no issues, I started getting ďhiccupsĒ again. Since Iíve been using the stock ebcs, the issue is different. I donít get stalls at wot, but Iíve gotten 2 stalls when coming to a stop.

Now, while Iím driving normally (cruising), the revs start hesitating, not dropping to zero as before, but the relays under the glove box start clicking really fast. I attached a pic of said relays. From what Iíve found through Google and the FSM, this relay box houses the fuel pump relay, O2 sensor relay, IG relay and throttle control relay. What I canít seem to find is a diagram that shows which is which. Does anyone have a diagram showing which relay does what?


Quoting myself...

Found what the relays mentioned in the post above are for in the FSM Wiring Diagram. Took me a while because I wasnít understanding correctly some parts of the diagram, so here they are in case anybody needs it:



Got the ABS module, so now I need the time to install it. Will update when I do so I can mark the date and see if replacing it fixes my issue.
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Old 06-02-2019, 06:32 AM   #42
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Default 08 WRX Engine Stalls... No CEL

Update about the ďhiccupĒ...

The issue I was getting apart from the stall was a sort of hiccup, about to stall, but not completely. Hereís the video link again:
. Along with the scanner, I bought an OBDII VAG cable: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F253968154544, to use with this software: https://sourceforge.net/projects/freessm.berlios/. It doesnít let me do much, but I can scan sensors live with min/max values, which the HNM scanner doesnít do.

Yesterday, the hiccup happened while I was scanning and saw that, when the hiccup happens, the rear O2 sensor voltage drops to zero for a fraction of a second:

Every other sensor and relay I was scanning didnít change condition, so my best guess would be that the ecu tries to trip a limp mode when it looses this sensorís signal. As for readings, Iíve read that the range should be from 0.4 to 0.8, and you can see in the pic the current reading at idle which stays around 0.04, so Iím also guessing the sensor is bad. Another thing to change, so will update when I do.
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Old 06-16-2019, 12:00 PM   #43
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Update...

Marking the date, June 16, 2019.

Just finished replacing the ABS module. Iím marking the date so I know how long itís been without the issue, assuming this is the culprit based on the codes Iím getting.

If youíre planning to do this, here are a few things you should know:

- Disconnect the battery.

- Modules might look the same throughout the years, but part numbers vary by year model, so when youíre searching for it, have your current part number in hand. If part numbers are not the same, they may be incompatible or behave differently, which can cause more or different trouble codes.

- The service manual explains that the screws canít be reused, so youíll need new ones. Part number for the screws is 27585AG000 and theyíre sold separately, so youíll need 4. I got them for less than $2 each at my local dealer.

- Youíll need to unbolt and move aside the power steering reservoir in order to have proper access to all the module screws. Hoses are flexible, so lifting it up and to the side should be enough, but you might want to tie it to something so it doesnít fall back into place while youíre working on the module.

- To have access to the lowest corner screw, youíll need to unbolt the bracket holding the ABS pump assembly to the chassis. Once the bolts are removed, the assembly moves enough that you can access said screw.

- The module disconnects from the pump by pulling in perpendicular, so the lines running over and down the module will not allow you to do this easily. Youíll need to flex the lines a bit, away from the module, to be able to pull it out completely and install the new/used one.

Hope this helps. If the issue happens again, then itís back to the drawing board.
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Old 06-16-2019, 12:35 PM   #44
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So this is one or the issues you might get if part numbers donít match:



I bought the same part number, but apparently the Impreza and the WRX have different modules, so I got the code above. Ordering a new one, so Iíll update when I install it again***129318;***127995;****9794;***65039;
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Old 01-10-2022, 10:06 AM   #45
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I think I have found the issue, and it's so stoopid, I can't believe I've been dealing with this for more than 4 years and it was this simple. Below the glove box, there's a relay panel that holds a few relays. Couple days ago the engine stalled in the middle of the street. Normally, when it happens, I spend seconds or a few minutes before the car allows me to start it up again, but this time already half an hour had gone by with no change. Temp needle stuck in high and the car wouldn't start. I was able to push the car to the sidewalk, went around the passenger side and started messing with the relays mentioned before because I was hearing clicking noises coming from there. As I started putting my hands on the relays, I noticed one of them being really hot compared to the others. I managed to pull it out and held it against the the air vents until it stopped feeling hot. I put it back in and started pushing and wobbling it in place with the key in the ON position and it suddenly clicked, the temp needle went back to normal and I was able to start the car again. I also have a 2010 Forester that has the same relay array under the glove box, so I took out the same relay and replaced mine with it. So far, the issue has not returned. Normally, I would get hints the issue would happen, like mini rpm dips or fraction of a second stalls, and since I replaced the relay I haven't had any indication of the issue whatsoever. The relay number is 156700-1020. The relay array has 8 slots, but they're not all populated. Looking at it facing you, it has 2 columns of 4 relays, and the one I replaced I believe is the 3rd one down on the right column. If you read through this thread, you'll find a drawing I made showing which relay does what, so the relay I replaced is the throttle body relay. From what I found in the wiring diagram, 3 of these relays run in series, so if one is off, all 3 go off, which I believe are the ignition, fuel pump and throttle body relays. The Forester is not being used right now because it needs some servicing, so my next test will be placing the relay I removed from my WRX in the Forester and see if I get the issue in the Forester as that will tell me the relay was issue, which I now believe it is. I'll update as soon as I can.
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Old 01-10-2022, 11:04 AM   #46
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I just tested the relay removed from the WRX in the Forester. The first test was starting the Forester without the relay and it started, but CEL came on and had no throttle response. I then installed the relay and the Forester started with no issues, CEL on. The codes that popped up were not the same, I believe because the Forester is AT, but their descriptions are somewhat related. I got codes for CAN bus communication and VDC control module, but with different numbers. I left the Forester running in place for a few minutes and it didn't stall or seemed like it was going to, but I could hear clicking coming from the relays. Again, behavior might be different because the Forester is AT and the WRX is manual, but as far as the relay behavior goes, it's doing the same in both cars. I'll be using the WRX frequently for the following days to come to see if the issue pops up again, but so far I've had no issues and no more clicking noises coming from the relays after replacing it. I'll update my findings when I do some more driving.
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Old 01-21-2022, 11:36 PM   #47
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Updating

To recap... This is how the issue started:

This is what it evolved to:

When this happens, I don't loose anything electrical, i.e. all electronics work fine, nothing electrical turns off. When I scan it, using a module that can access VDC, Airbags, TPMS and CAN, I get codes C0047, B0221 and U1221.

A few weeks ago I had a stall explained 2 posts earlier, and found a very hot relay, which I replaced and went on without issues for about 2 weeks. The replaced relay was tested in a Forester and it didn't cause the same issue, but clicking could be heard coming from the relay while the car was ON.

About 2 days ago, the WRX started showing the same symptom as in the first video of this post, without stalling. The issue from the second video in this post has not happened again since replacing the relay, but today, after the car being off for about 2 days, it took a few seconds for me to be able to start the car. When I put the key in the ON position, the Temp needle jumped to HIGH, stayed there for about 10 seconds, then came back to normal, turning on the same lights as before, Hill Assist, Traction Control and ABS. DTC's read are mentioned above.

So, I feel a bit dumb thinking a relay could be the reason having this issue for over 4 years, but apparently it is not, or at least not 100% as behavior has somewhat changed. Yes, I'm getting the same codes as before, but in one of the scans, some new codes popped up that I haven't seen before. These codes are B0101, B0102, B0103 and B0104, and from the description they're all related to power supply to either the ECU or CAN system. All I can think about when reading this is either my alternator is bad, causing a short or something, or my gauges are causing a short at the fuse box.

I am noticing that my Innovate AF Wideband gauge tends to stop reading at times, dropping to a flashing 7.4 and staying there until the car is turned off and started again. Now, this issue with the Innovate gauge doesn't happen along with the main issue I'm having. Meaning, the fact that it stops reading doesn't indicate the car will stall as I've had stalls with it reading and not reading as well. Do I think it could be causing issues? Yes. Do I think it is the issue? No, as it doesn't directly relate to the car stalling.

To test this, I'll have to wait a few days until I can get the time to get the car in the garage and start disconnecting and reconnecting stuff. I'll probably disable my gauges, or at least change the connections to somewhere else, and to clear all doubts about the relays below the glove box, I'll swap the remaining relays from the Forester to the WRX. If all this fails and the issue continues, I'll replace my alternator. It's a 2008 WRX and the alternator has never been replaced, although it only has 75K miles.

Found some threads on other Subie forums where these last codes were mentioned, but no solution was posted. There were references made to the alternator regarding the wiring, but I have already replaced the wiring harness from the alternator to the main fuse box, and the harness that goes from the battery to the starter. Another mention was the starter solenoid, again with no solution posted, but seeing as the starter only needs to work while cranking, I don't see how a faulty solenoid could cause the issue while driving, but I could be wrong.

It'll take me a few days to perform all the tests I'm planning to do. I'm working 16 and 24 hr shifts almost everyday with little to no break in between, and that small break I get is spent with the kids and their online classes. They'll finally start school full time next week, so at least that'll give me some time, but I will work 6 days this week, so I'll see if I can squeeze some work on the car during the day I'll be off.

I'll do the relay swaps, remove the gauges and drive for a few days to see if any of the issues in the videos posted show up again. Until then...
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Old 01-25-2022, 09:23 PM   #48
cianuro
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Update... relay not the issue. Got a stall this morning, but there was a difference. Since it happened while in motion, at about 30mph in 3rd gear I think, I pumped the clutch as if I was trying a roll push-start, and the engine came back ON. Could be coincidence that I pumped the clutch at the right moment, so I'll be trying that again when I get another stall.

On a side note, I posted about this issue in several forums trying to find someone with some insight into this. As I was reading through one of my threads, I wrote about being able to recreate the issue with the car standing still if I removed the Ignition relay from the relay block below the glove box and turning the key to the ON position. I don't remember if I got around replacing this relay because around the time I posted this, my throw out bearing blew to pieces and I had to park the car. Then came COVID and everything went to sheet.

From what I can gather by reading my own threads, I don't think I got around replacing it, so that's another thing I'll pull from the Forester, then plug my relay into it to see if the issue transfers to the Forester.

So far, what I can gather is this... When I drive the car peacefully, no wot or hard accelerations, the issue will not come up. If I go wot, the issue can happen during wot, or a while after the wot was performed. Knowing this, posts mentioning the alternator now sound more feasible as the alt runs faster when I accelerate. I'll start with the relay as it is the easiest, then move on to the alt...
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Old 05-11-2022, 07:38 PM   #49
cianuro
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2008 WRX
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Update... To whoever is actually still reading this, or might find it in the future...

I think I've finally found the issue. It's been 2 days with no issues, so I'm still a bit skeptical, but given what I found, I feel a bit more confident.

So, as always, I get a stall. This time the car was inside the garage. I was replacing the windshield washer nozzles because they were clogged, and the P/S pump leaks a bit, so I was filling it up. I turned the car on to circulate the P/S fluid a bit when I got the stall. The Temp needle pegged at high, dash lights on, etc., etc. I started messing around with plugs and relays below the dash to see if anything I touched made a difference in behavior, but nothing changed.

I have an additional ECU because I'm planning on doing the cloning process with Karmann Auto in Portland, so I decided to plug that one in, knowing full well that it wouldn't turn on. When I plugged it in, everything was normal, temp needle normal, scanner could read the ECU, but the Security light was ON, which I know is because VIN numbers in the ECU's don't match. I plug the OEM back in, Temp needle back to high, dash lights, etc. At this point I decide to pull the ECU out and just open it to see if I could find any visible issues on the ECU board. Guess what... I did! Have a look at the pics below:





I only took these 2 pics, but apart from that there were several small points with visible corrosion and even liquid residue trails, basically starting below the plugs and running across the board where it could by gravity.

I did as I've done with PC's, consoles and laptop motherboards... I dosed the board with alcohol and gave it a good clean with a toothbrush. All corrosion was removed, but the chip I show in one of the pics might need some of the pins to have the solder reflowed to make sure everything has good contact.

As I said above, it's only been 2 days, but given that no hiccups or stalls have happened, the issue was completely random, and the Cobb AP no longer flashes while I'm turning the key, leads me to believe the issue was poor contact between the ECU board and the chips. I have been forcing the car a bit these past 2 days because, even though I can't recreate the issue on command, it's mostly common at WOT and when drive over 4K RPMs, and there hasn't even been a hint of the issues.

Now, what could've caused this? When the issue started, a few things happened. I had replaced the clutch, the A/C was worked on, and something else I don't remember (it's been 5 years since this started). My theory has always gone back to the A/C, as in something got broken or wrongfully connected when it was worked on. I've removed the dash 3 times for loose connections or anything. I do remember at some point finding the hose for condensations that connects to the blower motor loose, just hanging there. At that moment I didn't put much thought into it as the issue wasn't still happening, but seeing where that hose hangs when loose, and the position of the ECU, makes me think that at some point that hose might have dripped condensations over the ECU. Yes, there's a thick carpet and the ECU has a metal plate over it, but at the angle the ECU sits, and the dried liquid trail I found inside it tells me that at some point water or a liquid was dripping over the plugs. The trail starts below the plugs and ends at the bottom of the ECU given it's orientation.

So, I'll keep testing. As I said, I'm still a bit skeptical. I'm preparing to reflow the solder on the points shown in the pics, so when I get another chance at removing the ECU, and have the tools necessary to do this kind of work, I'll work on it and maybe show before and after pics.

Until then...
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