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09-30-2010, 05:13 PM | #51 |
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: South Ogden
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I want to see this wagon done Hurry up already!!
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09-30-2010, 05:33 PM | #52 |
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Vehicle:15 WRX 6MT 07 Legacy SpecB |
Ken,
I too have had "scope creep".. Been without my LGT for 18 months.. i'll give some examples.. Brakes.. Custom mounted EVO brembos.. even though the overall cost was less than STI brembos.. i could have left the LGT brakes. Suspension.. did i really *need* the Flex coil overs and EDFC? driveline.. R180 and Spec B Axles.. i could have just run less power and been fine on the R160.. DEFI gauges.. didn't need those either. LGT manifold swap from STI.. needs new intercooler piping.. I'm sure my old stuff would have performed fine.. my point is, all i needed when i started the project was a bottom-end rebuild.. and with what I've spent "extra" i could have done it twice over.. now the final question.. Were all the extra funds and setbacks worth it? In the end, i'll say YES.. but i haven't driven it yet. .. i'm right there with ya on the whole procrastinating thing.. engine has been installed in my car for almost 3 weeks, and i have yet to fire it up. |
09-30-2010, 05:49 PM | #53 |
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Member#: 14732
Join Date: Jan 2002
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Location: Global
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STage 2 STI is the way to go
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09-30-2010, 05:50 PM | #54 |
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Member#: 229300
Join Date: Nov 2009
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: San Tan, AZ
Vehicle:2011 obp wrx hatch 08 dgm fxt |
I get anxious waiting in line for my coffee every morning, no way I would have the patience for something like this. More power to you guys that do though.
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09-30-2010, 05:56 PM | #55 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 211224
Join Date: May 2009
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Aurora, CO
Vehicle:2005 Saabaru Who knows |
Quote:
yay!!! its about time maybe i should finish my mockup on your braces . gotta make them perfect cause the car is going to be. |
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10-01-2010, 12:57 PM | #56 |
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Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
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SWIC
Location: AZ
Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
I agree, but I think all of us have one big build in us. This is that build for me. After this it will be "Stage II" cars I'm sure. Or just fast stock ones. Sometime I can't understand why I'm doing this, but I can't stop. I need to finish it now.
I also wanted to do this while I still can (before marriage and kids and obligations). |
10-01-2010, 12:59 PM | #57 | |
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Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
Quote:
Thanks. I can't wait to see them. I'm getting a bunch of stuff powder coated soon so i could throw the set in if it's done by the end of this month. On another note, the entire set of Group-N bushings that I ordered arrived today. I just need to get around to picking them up now. |
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10-05-2010, 03:13 AM | #58 |
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Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
So, nothing terribly exciting, but I did get some stuff in the mail today.
First up I got the Thexton Bleed screw repair kits I ordered for one of the front Brembo calipers. During rebuild, the bleed screw was frozen and ended up snapping off flush with the caliper. Not good. Turns out there is a very specific way of removing frozen bleeder screws so that they do not break that involves inserting a hardened metal dowel pin in the hole on the center of the screw. This prevents the fitting from collapsing in on itself when you apply great torque. Too bad I found this out after to broke. The threads came out stuck on the bleed screw. Either way, I ordered one of each size they make as I was unsure of how what size I really needed. They were ~$3.00 each. Cheap if they fix the issue. In a nutshell, you drill out the hole and thread it with 1/8 or 1/4 NPT. Here is the kit opened: Here are the kits compared with a stock sized speed bleeders for size comparison. |
10-05-2010, 03:37 AM | #59 |
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Location: phoenix, az
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I don't even remember what this car looks like anymore, Ken. Is it a black bugeye sedan?
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10-05-2010, 09:10 AM | #60 |
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Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
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10-05-2010, 02:03 PM | #61 |
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Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region:
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Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
I also got these in the mail yesterday. Very essential in my book.
1) CRC SL35901 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricating Compound, 8 Wt Oz 2) Energy Suspension 9.11104 Formula 5 Prelube Grease - 8 oz. It's difficult to see in the pictures, but the anti-seize has copper flakes in it. The suspension grease has silicone and is incredibly sticky. |
10-05-2010, 05:05 PM | #62 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 197077
Join Date: Dec 2008
Chapter/Region:
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Location: Gilbert
Vehicle:2001 Honda S2000 Berlina Blaque |
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10-05-2010, 07:53 PM | #63 |
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Something is here for you
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10-05-2010, 08:27 PM | #64 |
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Ken's swapping the 5mt in?!?!?
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10-05-2010, 08:42 PM | #65 |
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Member#: 66959
Join Date: Jul 2004
Chapter/Region:
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Location: San Diego
Vehicle:04 STi and E46 M3 |
hmmMmmm kw's!
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10-05-2010, 10:47 PM | #66 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 211224
Join Date: May 2009
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Aurora, CO
Vehicle:2005 Saabaru Who knows |
sockets?
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10-05-2010, 11:21 PM | #67 |
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Join Date: Apr 2007
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Location: PM SkimSTI for FREEEEEEEEEEEEE
Vehicle:HJ's Ask Hobbs. He knows. |
Ken why the ufck are you putting TR seats in?
Ohhh that's right, in today's market, they're worth a straight trade for STI isht. |
10-05-2010, 11:28 PM | #68 |
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what the hell you guys talking about, you don't see the yellow broom handle, Ken wanted to sweep up his garage
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10-12-2010, 01:52 AM | #69 |
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Finish this **** Ken! Keep waiting and I will have gone as far as you without all the downtime
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10-12-2010, 02:59 AM | #70 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Location: AZ
Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
Yeah, probably. I'm making progress. I've done more in the past month than the 6 before that for what ever that means. Going to visit the powder coater this week and see if we can get colors and prices nailed down. |
10-12-2010, 04:07 AM | #71 |
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Member#: 211224
Join Date: May 2009
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RMIC
Location: Aurora, CO
Vehicle:2005 Saabaru Who knows |
hey ken what size bleed repair kit fits the front brembos? i was installing my front brembos and one of my bleed screws stripped so now i dont have a car and need a repair kit like the thexton. where can i find that locally. let me know asap. thanks buddy
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10-18-2010, 03:54 PM | #72 |
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Member#: 197077
Join Date: Dec 2008
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Vehicle:2001 Honda S2000 Berlina Blaque |
so... we'll see this bad motha at the meet thursday right?
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10-20-2010, 12:44 AM | #73 |
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Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
Well dang. I was attempting to perform what's known as the "Free caster mod" involving the aluminum front control arms tonight and a bolt snapped off in the arm.
For those that are curious, the mod involves adding a spacer between the arm and the pivot bolt that goes in the rear bushing (the ALK bushing). It can be seen here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1900666 (photo credit to JDwhiteWRX) I don't have time to mess around with this non-sense so it's off to the machine shop tomorrow. While they are at it, they can push the front control arm bushings out too so that the powder coater can do his thing. One thing is clear, stay away from cars that have seen salt. The galvanic corrosion between the steel bolt and the aluminum arm was crazy and most likely responsible for the frozen bolt... just like the Brembos... and hubs from the donor car. I will be replacing the front control arm bushing with another stock unit. Why you ask? Because there is no Group-N replacement. There is hardly any rubber in that bushing any way so the firmer group-N bushing would have little impact. There are aftermarket units available too, but they are all polyurethane and I don't know how much I trust that material in this application. From what I have read, the Poly-Pro/Energy Suspension units tend to break very quickly (3000 miles or less in some cases) and the whiteline units just look like a royal pain in the ass to install. From what I have read, the whiteline units are 37mm in diameter and the control arm is 36mm in diameter. That is one hell of a pressfit and many said it's damn near impossible even with heating the arm and freezing the bushing. I really think that the OEM unit will be fine and they are cheap. Last edited by kpluiten; 10-20-2010 at 12:50 AM. |
10-20-2010, 01:15 AM | #74 |
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Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
I have also made progress on the overhaul of the suspension components.
Below is a 2005 STi subframe. The advantage to this subframe is that the 2005 STi (along with the 2004 STi) were the only GD's to have a rear subframe without rubber isolated bushings. This means it has a more connected feel right out of the box and does not need subframe lock bolts or anything like that. I prefer it to running lock bolts because it is solid in all four corners rather than just to middle points. This unit had a bit of rust around the edges, but nothing deep or pitted. Certainly nothing that was of any concern to me. I wirebrushed off all the rusty spots and spots with loose paint. It was then coated with VHT Epoxy paint. Very nice paint and it appears to be as tough as nails after it cures (about 5 days). Here is the differential carrier after being thoroughly cleaned, wire brushed, and coated with the VHT Epoxy paint. The finish is better than I was expecting. It's not as nice as powder coating, but for it's purpose and location, this is just fine; it certainly looks WAY better than new. You can see the trailing arms finished behind it as well. |
10-20-2010, 01:28 AM | #75 |
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Here are the trailing arms all prepped and ready for paint. I was going to have them boxed, but in the interest of getting the car back on the road I decided to finish a stock set and send out one of the other stock sets sometime in the future. I ended up painting these with the epoxy paint, but I am going to end up having them powder coated instead as you can see them from the outside of the car and I think it will look neat that way.
Here's a picture of the upper trailing arm bushings. They were a pain in the butt to remove. I first tried my 12 ton press and maxed it out quickly. Then I tried the 50 ton press at work. I stopped at about 18 tons as it really seemed like something in the tooling setup was going to fail and kill me. I ended up using my 12 ton press to "core" the bushing (push the center out) and then I used a hacksaw to cut the outer aluminum sleeve in two locations about one centimeter apart. Then, using a flathead screw driver, I was able to push the cut section out. As soon as it was free, the rest of the outer sleeve collapsed inward and the bushing fell out. With a little grease, the new ones should press right in. I found that hanging the parts from the trees in the front yard was the best way to paint them. I kept getting the stare-down from all the neighbors who I'm certain are sick of my car projects spilling over into the front yard. Last edited by kpluiten; 10-20-2010 at 01:52 AM. |
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