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08-09-2020, 03:38 PM | #1 |
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Bleeding/Flushing clutch fluid Help. 02wrx5Mt
So I did the brakes with Motul660. Job went well.
Moved on to the Clutch fluid, and job has been a pain. Pedal keeps going to the floor and staying there. Yesterday night I gave up, leaving the pedal on the floor. Then this morning, the pedal has the pressure again?!? Me and my wife were doing the procedure, I just can’t wrap my head around this one. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thankyou.
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08-09-2020, 03:46 PM | #2 |
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Could the piston have been pushed out of the cylinder ?
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08-09-2020, 03:48 PM | #3 |
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Honestly I’m not even sure. The thing has 217k miles on it. So maybe that has a little something to do with it?
It works just fine, I just figured why not change the fluid while I have some Motul left? I’m just lost on how to do this? |
08-09-2020, 03:57 PM | #4 |
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Frustrating...
it wasn't broke...now it is. can you reach the cylinder and see if the piston is moving level, not hanging at a downward angle ? |
08-09-2020, 04:01 PM | #5 |
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It’s level, it does move around quite freely though.
I just wouldn’t think a job this easy would turn into something that has me scratching my head. |
08-09-2020, 04:10 PM | #6 |
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May be search youtube for a "how to bleed clutch"
If you remove the line from the slave cylinder, does fluid drain out of it ? Make sure fluid is getting to it. It's been about 15 years since I put a new slave cylinder on, but it went well. This has to be easy... |
08-09-2020, 04:18 PM | #7 |
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Yea fluid is escaping upon pushing the clutch to flush out the old fluid, then the pedal just looses pressure.
I searched YouTube, and read the Haynes manual I have. And I’m still just confused why it’s loosing pressure, and how to keep the pressure? |
08-09-2020, 04:22 PM | #8 |
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I wonder if like a brake master cylinder, you now need to bench bleed the master ?
It may have lost its prime...if that's a thing. |
08-09-2020, 04:23 PM | #9 |
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08-09-2020, 04:51 PM | #10 | |
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Bleeding/Flushing clutch fluid Help. 02wrx5Mt
Quote:
Lol I literally watched this vid. but I don’t remember anywhere where they talk about the peddle going to the floor and building back pressure, and or loosing it. Etc. Last edited by NicMonte; 08-09-2020 at 10:01 PM. |
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08-09-2020, 10:36 PM | #11 |
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Once again, pressure built back up. Might just replace it with the extra slave master cylinder(clutch) that came with the 4.44 trans I have from jdmracingmotors that came with the trans.
Haven’t swapped the trans yet, with the 4.44 jdm one. But it might not be a bad idea. Hope someone can chim in, and explain what might be going on, or what I might be doing wrong.? ***129318;****9794;***65039;***129335;***127997;****9794;***65039; |
08-09-2020, 11:00 PM | #12 |
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The slave cylinder is the least likely problem. If there isn't fluid leaking out past the piston, I'd focus on the master cylinder. I prefer to bleed brakes and clutch cylinders with someone else helping, this way air can't get sucked back in. Vacuum bleeders can pull air in around the edge of the caliper and slave cylinder seals.
You also need to be sure the clutch pedal is releasing far back enough so the hole the fluid comes back through is open enough. If the pedal is being stopped by a clutch switch that's holding it forward too far, it can happen. When bleeding, be sure to press it down only one time and hold, let the other person open the bleeder and release fluid and close, then pull the pedal back up by hand. Repeat this several times if needed. "Pumping the brakes" or clutch several times when bleeding can break the air bubbles into smaller ones and make it take longer to get the air out. |
08-09-2020, 11:12 PM | #13 |
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So what I’ve done is this:
Had the wife in the car, I would open the bleeder valve then ask her to push the pedal down. I’d close the bleeder valve and ask her to bring back up the pedal. Upon doing this, the next time we repeated the process, the clutch pedal is on the floor with no pressure. And after a few hours the pressure returns. Idk |
08-10-2020, 07:58 AM | #14 | |
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Quote:
Have her push the clutch to the floor. You then open the bleeder, when the air or fluid has stopped coming out, you close the bleeder. The pedal spring should pull the pedal back up. See the post above by 2slofouru |
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08-10-2020, 08:24 AM | #15 |
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Well then..... I will try that tonight when I get off work and report back.
Thankyou. |
08-10-2020, 01:26 PM | #16 |
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Good Luck
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08-10-2020, 07:36 PM | #17 |
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Tried that exact method... and lost pressure as soon as I opened the bleeder.
She had the clutch peddle to the floor, opened bleeder and pedal wouldn’t come back up, had to manually pull pedal back up and once again no pressure. I’m stumped. |
08-11-2020, 10:35 AM | #18 |
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This process should do it,
"When bleeding, be sure to press it down only one time and hold, let the other person open the bleeder and release fluid and close, then pull the pedal back up by hand. Repeat this several times if needed. "Pumping the brakes" or clutch several times when bleeding can break the air bubbles into smaller ones and make it take longer to get the air out." You said you, "opened bleeder and pedal wouldn't come back up". You need to pull the pedal back up with the bleeder closed. |
08-11-2020, 11:13 AM | #19 |
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I did close the bleeder after opening it, Fluid did shoot up the clear line I had on it, and pedal lost pressure at the floor. I pulled up the pedal and it did rest at the top, but had no pressure to continue to flush out the old fluid.
I’m not necessarily trying to get the air out, but replace fluid with fresh fluid. How do you keep pressure in the clutch pedal while flushing out fluid? I’m confused. Lol |
08-11-2020, 03:13 PM | #20 | |
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Quote:
I'm assuming the master cylinder ran dry or got really low. |
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08-11-2020, 03:18 PM | #21 |
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https://oards.com/bleed-a-clutch-master-cylinder/
that was a couple links below the one I posted above. But i think that's what your doing. |
08-11-2020, 03:19 PM | #22 |
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https://oards.com/bleed-a-clutch-master-cylinder/
that was a couple links below the one I posted above. But i think that's what your doing. |
08-11-2020, 09:59 PM | #23 |
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I had this same problem on a 2011 Wrx. I watched and read the forums and found this.
The easiest way to bleed the clutch slave is to unbolt it from transmission. Clamp the piston. So when you pump there will be back pressure. Also hold the slave up so it is the high point in the systems. This puts the air at the highest point. I use hand style vacuum and have good results. |
08-13-2020, 09:45 PM | #24 | |
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Quote:
I’m going to do the clamp trick, that will probably keep the pressure in the clutch and might just pump the old fluid out. Then I’ll refill the reservoir, pump etc. hope that does the trick. |
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08-14-2020, 09:09 AM | #25 |
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Make sure the reservoir is full before you pump the clutch pedal.
Don't drain the fluid. Keep it topped off as your bleeding it. Bleed it until fresh fluid comes out. |
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