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02-17-2018, 12:30 AM | #26 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 71875
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Montana
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So long story short is you just cross threaded a bolt?
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02-17-2018, 08:55 AM | #27 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 472886
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Louisiana
Vehicle:2013 WRX Spoolinator Silver |
I did a 2013 WRX install on these(inserts).
I stripped the bolt and threads. Drilled out 1/4 inch of threads and used anti seize to re install. I was lucky.... If you feel any resistance while torquing bolt. STOP...... Torque from left to right to prevent binding. |
02-18-2018, 03:44 PM | #28 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 275799
Join Date: Mar 2011
Vehicle:2005 STI |
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02-18-2018, 03:50 PM | #29 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 275799
Join Date: Mar 2011
Vehicle:2005 STI |
Agreed. Lining up all the things is challenging. What do you mean by "torque from left to right to prevent binding"? Is that from left to right sides of the car?
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02-19-2018, 04:07 PM | #30 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 472886
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Louisiana
Vehicle:2013 WRX Spoolinator Silver |
***55358;***56595;
Should have said torque/tighten all bolts with equal turns per bolt. Otherwise binding will happen. Like torque pattern for lug nuts. |
02-20-2018, 01:48 PM | #31 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 107618
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:06 GG WRX / 09 FXT @florencedestinedfxt |
Wow, that's a lot of drama to go through with these bushings. I can relate as I've had my fair share of easy-but-turned-tremendously/stupidly-difficult mods.
So this brings back memories as I've had this exact issue when I installed the Kartboy bushings that are supposed to complement the oem bushings. This was about 8 years ago. There are a few other aftermarket companies like Perrin that sell the same type of bushing. The link to my review and how I documented the same issue is linked below. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho...ight=outrigger My initial thought was that the bushing and it's sleeve somehow slipped a little within the outrigger "ring" which resulted in that 1/4 inch of the sleeve sticking out at the bottom of the ring. It essentially rendered one of the 4 pieces of the KB set useless. With what you have documented, it is clear to me now that it wasn't what I originally thought and it's just a 1/4inch longer bushing. Now, I don't want to beat a dead horse or digress or dig further into something that doesn't seem too complex on a decade and a half old chassis, but I am curious as to why this is the case from the factory? You can tell this is deliberate as the mounting plates are different where one of the plates has a step down to account for the longer bushing. I wonder why the design was like this? And does it really make a difference if you use the Whiteline bushings with 2 flat mounting plates? Does the slight twist in the outrigger mount cause any unnecessary wear on the inner cv axle joints? Interesting...but again it's an old platform and I doubt there's much that could be found about this. The fact that there has been very little critiques such as mine about how the aftermarket "support" bushings don't fit well shows how no one cares, lol. |
02-20-2018, 02:00 PM | #32 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 64273
Join Date: Jun 2004
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Greenville, SC
Vehicle:'11 STi PBP |
Small update, i finally got mine installed and took the car for a (short) spin. Unfortunately this took forever because of fitting the DSS Al driveshaft (go with the carbon one).
I "simply" had them pressed in flush on both sides. I'm actually running the RH plates on both sides of the car, and things fit back together perfectly. I made sure to clean out the threads and went slowly and had no issue. The shop had to torch the ***** out of the outer sleeves to press the old bushings in and out apparently. I did these at the same time as rear trailing arm bushings, and can feel an increase in "connectivity" and NVH. I haven't had a chance to push the car at all though. |
02-20-2018, 02:03 PM | #33 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 64273
Join Date: Jun 2004
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Greenville, SC
Vehicle:'11 STi PBP |
I emailed whiteline and they sounded willing to help, but not really knowledgeable of the install. I wasn't able to provide measurements as I'd already dropped them off to get pressed out
"Are you able to provide any measurements? I ran into this earlier this year with 1 other customer and he had destroyed his bushings and was not able to provide any additional information other than his bolt not threading all the way in. I'll be perfectly honest here and say that I have only been with the company for a little over a year's time and have only ran into this once before as I said, but I will do what I can to get this sorted out for you. Can you please provide your vehicle information as well so I can keep record of this. Jesse Shea Technical Sales Coordinator" |
02-20-2018, 04:23 PM | #34 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 175624
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Wichita, KS
Vehicle:0304 WRX WRX SY WRB |
Quote:
I'm going to install Group Ns and save the hassle |
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03-03-2018, 11:01 PM | #35 | ||
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 275799
Join Date: Mar 2011
Vehicle:2005 STI |
Quote:
One thought I had was that the different bushing length was driven by torque applied by the driveshaft to the differential. Doesn't seem likely, but that is the best I could come up with. Regarding twist that could be induced by using the Whiteline bushings - As long as your Whiteline bushings are pressed in to the same depth, I think you would be OK. The top of the bushing still rests on the same place on the underside of the car, so it shouldn't change too much from stock. Where it seems you could run into trouble is if you install both of the original tie plates. The tie plate with the bend in it would either angle up, or allow a gap between the bushing and the underside of the car depending on whether you installed the two small bolts or the one large bolt first. Which brings me to this statement: Quote:
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03-08-2018, 09:06 AM | #36 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 64273
Join Date: Jun 2004
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Greenville, SC
Vehicle:'11 STi PBP |
Hey, if you could that'd be great. I'd like to see if there is a response from Whiteline and compare them with the whitelines. I've been contemplating my drivetrain angles after install of the 1-piece driveshaft.
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03-09-2018, 01:47 PM | #37 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 107618
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:06 GG WRX / 09 FXT @florencedestinedfxt |
Good to know about using "flat" plates on both sides if I ever do this upgrade.
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03-21-2018, 02:11 PM | #38 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 175624
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Wichita, KS
Vehicle:0304 WRX WRX SY WRB |
Quote:
Crush tubes are both flush with the bushing on the bottom side. RH bushing - overall/crush tube length 2.51" ~ 63.75mm RH bushing - sleeve protrusion from subframe on bottom side (sorry this came out a bit blurry) .236" ~ 6mm RH bushing - crush tube protrusion from top of bushing (this is a very rough measurement. I didn't have a way to get a measurement from the crush tube to the actual subframe) .303" ~7.7mm LH bushing - overall/crush tube length 2.237" ~ 56.8mm LH bushing - crush tube protrusion from top of bushing (this is a very rough measurement. I didn't have a way to get a measurement from the crush tube to the actual subframe) .243" ~ 6.2mm I purchased Powerflex bushings for this. On both sides, the crush tubes are slightly undersized in overall length (crush tube) but there is a thicker lower RH bushing for this application. |
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03-22-2018, 03:06 PM | #39 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 107618
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:06 GG WRX / 09 FXT @florencedestinedfxt |
So it sounds like there are 2 solutions to installing aftermarket bushings depending on which you ones you buy:
1) if same bushings for either side, then buy an additional passenger side bracket/mounting plate 2) if taller driver side bushing, then install it on driver side with "thicker" end towards the bottom of the driver side Choice of which aftermarket bushings would be your preference. |
03-23-2018, 09:31 AM | #40 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 175624
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Wichita, KS
Vehicle:0304 WRX WRX SY WRB |
Quote:
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03-23-2018, 09:45 AM | #41 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 107618
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:06 GG WRX / 09 FXT @florencedestinedfxt |
Oddly enough, it seems the OP and another person has the taller bushing on the driver side whereas you, T-37, have it on the passenger side. That's even more confusing now.
Just to stop beating a dead horse, I believe it to be correct that if you get 2 different bushings from whatever aftermarket company, then install the taller one on the bottom end of whichever side has the taller oem bushing. |
03-23-2019, 11:03 PM | #42 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 419354
Join Date: Apr 2015
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Newark, Delaware
Vehicle:2007 STI Crystal gray metallic |
I installed the Powerflex bushings today and while doing it I realized I had kartboy outrigger bushings installed in the pictures I posted a year and a half ago. This was likely the source of some confusion. I was focusing on the metal sleeve that extends downward only on the passenger side and not so much the height of bushing material against the body, so I didn't think of it. Sorry guys.
Considering the difficulty reported installing the whiteline bushings and overall pain in the ass of removing the whole diff support, I'd say powerflex is probably the best way to go. Installation time (you might hate me) was only about 30-40 mins per side, including searching for tools and rigging various ways to hack out the old bushings. I could probably do it faster now knowing what works. Here's what I did: - Chalk front tires, lift car by rear diff, support on pinch welds with jack stands, relieve pressure from jack but keep in place as a fail safe. Don't support the rear diff. - Remove support plate. - Drill bit to cut through the rubber supporting the center metal spacer ***8208; just kept jamming it in and moving it at different angles. Once hacked, remove it. A small end mill would have been nice, but I couldn't find mine. A spiral multipurpose Dremel bit is useless. The rubber is surprisingly resilient, almost like a car tire. - Tried drilling to get the rest of the rubber out, but it was slow moving. A hole saw made short work of the rest of the rubber. - A jig saw was short enough to fit under the car and a metal blade made short work of cutting a slot through the metal sleeve. If you lift the car up high enough a sawzall will do the trick. I tested it but it felt too sketchy with the car ~6" above jack stands that were at their highest locking point... not safe. Removing as much rubber as possible in the area you're going to saw was helpful. At first attempt the metal blade just melted the rubber and coated the teeth making it difficult to bite into the sleeve. Once again, this **** is difficult to remove. It was bonded the F onto the metal sleeve. Cut the slot on the side closest to the center of the car so you can fit a Dremel flex shaft with cut off disc in there. Alternatively (see next), cut the top shoulder of the sleeve with the dremel first and then cut a slot perpendicular to the shoulder cut. - Dremel cut off disc with flex shaft to cut the top shoulder of metal sleeve. - Hammer cold chisel between sleeve and outrigger to seperate it. It popped right out and moved freely with little effort. - Use pry bar, hammer, vise grips & general mashing tools to mangle the sleeve until it's folded up enough to drop out the bottom of the outrigger. It's a tight area to work in, but cutting little reliefs along the top shoulder with the dremel was key to making it fold it easily. - Install new bushings and support plate. I used a pry bar to flex the outrigger down enough to slip the bushing in and used a ratchet strap to maneuver the outrigger into position to avoid cross threading the bolt. Note: The oem metal shim thing that goes between the top of the bushing and the body doesn't nest into the Powerflex bushing like it does with the OEM. I tried rotating the tabs 90 degrees, but they were hanging by a thread and the center circle wasn't concentric with the bushing, so instead of messing with it I didn't bother reinstalling them. Mangled sleeve: Cut bend reliefs: Shim thing on right (already twisted the tabs 90 degrees), new bushing on left: Last edited by Subie_; 03-24-2019 at 12:27 AM. Reason: Added stuff |
03-24-2019, 05:36 AM | #43 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 275799
Join Date: Mar 2011
Vehicle:2005 STI |
When I was still pursuing the Whieline solution, I had ordered some giant 1/2in ID stainless fender washers from McMaster-Carr to replace the OEM disks that go between the top of the bushing and the bottom of the car. The fender washers don’t have the three tabs sticking down to center on the metal ID sleeve in the bushing, but the sleeves don’t protrude on the aftermarket bushings, so they’re a good match. Something like McMaster-Carr number 91525A152.
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03-24-2019, 06:46 PM | #44 |
NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 123843
Join Date: Aug 2006
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Connecticut
Vehicle:2016 STI LTD CWP Let LED's light your way! |
Regardless of the model-year, my suggestion is to buy a tap and clean-out the captive-nut threads, buy new bolts, and use anti-seize for installation (re-installation).
This will of course increase the overall cost to this type of (or any) project, but taking extra steps may at the end provide for a better and hopefully non-invasive installation (re-installation). |
10-25-2020, 03:33 PM | #45 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 476671
Join Date: Oct 2017
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Rochester, NY
Vehicle:2001 Impreza 2.5RS STM |
Update for anyone wanting to proceed with these bushings.
Work great. I installed them in a 2005 WRX Outrigger Support into my 2001 Impreza 2.5RS. I had the same problem mentioned in throughout this thread, where the bushes are the same lengths but bores for them are different lengths. Instead of using the one support plate that is bent up maybe an inch, I ordered two flat plates and pressed the bushes in the same length, so that the bushing was flush with the bottom of each bore. I have been driving on them this way for approximately four months now with no issues. Passenger Side Driver Side Mounted |
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