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Old 01-19-2020, 03:02 PM   #251
2dino
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Quote:
Originally Posted by after5hock View Post
Hey guys,

I made a video of the process and parts I came up with. I have the grimspeed brake master cylinder brace, circuit clutch master brace, ITS mount, and newly updated version of the clutch pedal assembly, and the firewall still ripped on me.

I did not remove any part of the dash, done 4 in 1.5 hours with video capture.

Have a look if you are bored and would like to save the hassle of removing the dash or using rivets, both of which personally scare me: https://youtu.be/oPMx7MprzFM
Hello after5hock,
That's a brilliant idea with the hollow set screws.
Guess you are from Canada as you use km in video .
If so would you mind sharing when did you buy the screws in Canada? I have failed to find any in Ontario.
Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-19-2020, 11:27 PM   #252
after5hock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2dino View Post
Hello after5hock,
That's a brilliant idea with the hollow set screws.
Guess you are from Canada as you use km in video .
If so would you mind sharing when did you buy the screws in Canada? I have failed to find any in Ontario.
Thanks in advance.
Hey Dino,

Thanks for the kind words. I hope others have a great time with the install. I had a blast knowing I was getting rid of that horrid sound, the top two welds popped on mine, and you can see the bottom ones deforming already. Glad I did mine when I did. Driving without clutch or brake is unimaginable..

I can't stress how much of a breeze the install was compared to the other methods I've heard/read. I wish I did this years ago before I spent all that money on braces that did jack all for me.

I have the kits for sale now for a small profit, $69 USD for the hardware, wire, and step by step instructions, another $39 USD for the drill bit, sealant, and loctite.
$10 USD shipped to Canada, and $15 USD shipped to USA.

To be clear, I'm really not making bank on this, or plan this to be my day job, I just thought I could save other people lots of time.

I can send you a paypal commercial invoice if you are interested.

Cheers,
Peter
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Old 01-21-2020, 09:46 AM   #253
2dino
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PM sent.
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Old 01-22-2020, 12:48 AM   #254
after5hock
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Thanks Dino!

Hi everyone,

Here is the spot weld replacement kit's home: https://www.humblerumble.ca/

Thanks for your time

Cheers,
Peter

Last edited by after5hock; 01-31-2020 at 11:36 PM.
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Old 01-22-2020, 01:29 AM   #255
viper_crazy
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Old 01-23-2020, 07:59 PM   #256
TEK112
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I just wanted to share my experience. it has been a very long time since I've posted anything. I have a 2009 WRX with just over 64,000 miles. I know, low mileage, please don't judge. Anyway, the squeak started about eight months ago and then a clicking sound. I took it to my local mechanic because I was about to have a clutch installed. He said something wasn't right about the pedal feel. To me it seemed normal, because I've been driving the car for 10 years. It progressively got worse.

I did my due diligence and hit the forums. I saw the spot weld issue which I checked for back in 2013 when the issues first arose. I did the tests and saw the clutch master cylinder move about an inch and a half with each clutch depress. The most terrifying part was looking at the brake pedal which moved almost 2 inches laterally to the left with each clutch depress.

I ended up going to my dealer and brought the TSB. On their own, they contacted Subaru of America who offered to cover it free of charge as Goodwill. I asked them to do the clutch at the same time and saved about $300 because some of the work is crossover and saved me on labor.

I was honestly floored. Regardless of the mileage, it is a ten-year-old car. Subaru took care of me.

I hope this helps people and they may try going to the dealership first, or contacting Subaru of America on their own.
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Old 01-27-2020, 01:32 AM   #257
2dino
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Quote:
Originally Posted by after5hock View Post
Thanks Dino!

Hi everyone,

Here is the spot weld replacement kit's home: http://humblerumble.mystrikingly.com/

Thanks for your time

Cheers,
Peter
A bit of update. Looks like I had been barking at the wrong tree.

Found only one top weld was cracked. I proceeded to used Peter's kit to repair it and also to reinforce the adjacent one. The kit indeed made quick work of the job and saved my back and neck big time.
There was, however no improvement to the sqeaking sound .

I dove back into the footwell again with a bright light and mirror and eventually found a hairline crack around half of the horizontal outertube that houses clutch pedal spindle. The tube flexes/wriggles at each clutch pedal application and the nearly invisible crack will open up, in harmony with the squeak!

Need to get a replacement pedal assembly

Last edited by 2dino; 01-27-2020 at 01:33 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 01-27-2020, 01:53 AM   #258
after5hock
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Hey Dino,

I had the same issue, crack at the support tube in the pedal assy. Had to get the assy replaced with 36004FG050, and installed the ITS pedal bracket at the same time. In my opinion the ITS bracket should help the same support tube failure from happening to a new pedal assy. But it doesn't prevent the spot weld failure (unlike the advertising says), as the failure happened to me 10k kms down the road.

I'm glad you got the kit and it worked well for you, it's one less thing to worry about on your car once spot welds go, they go quick as all the force are concentrated on the next spot weld.

Thanks for the kind note and good luck with your pedal assy

Cheers,
Peter
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Old 02-11-2020, 02:15 AM   #259
Deek
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Inspected my clutch plate spot welds for ****s n giggles since I have everything apart anyways, sure enough they were on their way out. Had the Humble Rumble hardware kit ready to go just in case, which paid off.

Super painless install and while I may have been able to source the hardware myself, the kit made it super convenient.






Last edited by Deek; 02-11-2020 at 02:21 AM.
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Old 03-25-2020, 03:47 PM   #260
lupohki
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Hey guys, thought I would share my experience with this issue and what I did to fix it. My clutch and brake pedals were making intermittent clicks. Checked my firewall welds and one of the top two were out and the other one was going out. I bought the following items:

Vented hex bolts from Amazon for ~$7 (any type (just not headless) of vented fastener would do - i just got what was cheapest then)
Mechanics wire, red loctite, and clear sealant from Harbor Freight for ~$8
Washers and nuts from Home Depot (I got stainless - probably not needed though since the sealant is slathered on everything) ~$5

It's the same idea as humble rumble's kit for installation by using the mechanics wire to fish the vented bolts through the hole. I did do the extra step of Dremeling a slot on the end of the bolts so you can use a flathead screwdriver to keep it from spinning when tightening it down. Also, I just used regular flat washers and red loctite on the nut. No more clicks after the install.

Last edited by lupohki; 03-25-2020 at 03:55 PM.
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Old 04-12-2020, 09:57 AM   #261
gabriel.atienza
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Default Another victim of the spot welds

Well,
I know how it probably happened, high cycle fatigue, I daily drive the car and probably had 60 clutch presses on my commute, some quick math that about 270,000 times in a 3 year span.
So I let it got for 40+ thousands miles until recently not only the clutch made sound but the brake pedal clack and creek. That scared me, so while in "social distancing" took on this project while working from home.

After disassembly I had 6 out of 8 welds broken. I went with 6mm flange bolts and nuts from mcmastercarr. To stay with 10mm sockets for most bolting (a most have if you ask me). The reason I went to flange bolt was to spread the stress, the original weld was about 5mm wide, and the fact the it broke around the weld tells me the base material failed. So spreading the load on a 13.5 mm diameter surface. I hope this extends the fatigue life enough that I don't have to worry about this again.

Some tips and tricks,
-An old machinist trick, use self tapping screws as pilot drill bits, if they get dull throw them away, grab another one until a screw is in. Then remove it.
-Don't beat around the bush, take the dash out.
-Moving the body control module, fuse box and a few other harness out of the way will help. Get better access to the top of the pedals. I cut the insulation in a few places.
-Remove the driver seat, put something down so you don't get stab from 2 screws sticking up under the carpet
-Use loctite, you down want to be in here ever again.
-If you plan to install a aftermarket stereo with navigation, etc. This is a perfect time. You can easily run you microphone cables, speed sensor, ebrake, etc.
-It takes a few days.

If you are reading this, we feel your pain.
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Old 04-30-2020, 05:54 PM   #262
gregnauman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabriel.atienza View Post
Well,

I know how it probably happened, high cycle fatigue, I daily drive the car and probably had 60 clutch presses on my commute, some quick math that about 270,000 times in a 3 year span.

So I let it got for 40+ thousands miles until recently not only the clutch made sound but the brake pedal clack and creek. That scared me, so while in "social distancing" took on this project while working from home.



After disassembly I had 6 out of 8 welds broken. I went with 6mm flange bolts and nuts from mcmastercarr. To stay with 10mm sockets for most bolting (a most have if you ask me). The reason I went to flange bolt was to spread the stress, the original weld was about 5mm wide, and the fact the it broke around the weld tells me the base material failed. So spreading the load on a 13.5 mm diameter surface. I hope this extends the fatigue life enough that I don't have to worry about this again.



Some tips and tricks,

-An old machinist trick, use self tapping screws as pilot drill bits, if they get dull throw them away, grab another one until a screw is in. Then remove it.

-Don't beat around the bush, take the dash out.

-Moving the body control module, fuse box and a few other harness out of the way will help. Get better access to the top of the pedals. I cut the insulation in a few places.

-Remove the driver seat, put something down so you don't get stab from 2 screws sticking up under the carpet

-Use loctite, you down want to be in here ever again.

-If you plan to install a aftermarket stereo with navigation, etc. This is a perfect time. You can easily run you microphone cables, speed sensor, ebrake, etc.

-It takes a few days.



If you are reading this, we feel your pain.


No way I would take the dash out after a few people came up with kits that make it easy ***129335;***127996;****9794;***65039;
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Old 09-18-2020, 04:14 PM   #263
tqrecords
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Used the Humble Rumble kit which was awesome, squeak still there....FML

After inspection (which I should have done more of), it looks like I have the dreaded hairline fracture in the metal tube from the pedal assembly. Either way, reinforcing the firewall seems the have the benefit of a more secure pedal feel. Or maybe it's just in my head...
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Old 01-22-2021, 08:06 PM   #264
Rallyquest
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2008 STi
White - Gold wheels

Default New owner of '08 STi, knew I'd have to do the bracket

Just purchased a pretty much mint '08 STi with 104,000 km on the clock. Went into this knowing there was a strong possibility of this needing repair from all the pre-buy research I did. Clutch wasn't creaking and brake pedal had minimal movement, but looking how it was made, it's inevitable with all of these cars.
Removed the cowl cover and the top rivets were cracked. 1 of the bottom ones was starting to go as well.
Took about 3 hours to repair, didn't want to rush. Removed the DS side dash panel and the lower dash panel. From there with a long extension I could get to the top rivets after drilling them out, 1 at a time. Used 1/4-20 bolts with fender washers. Added an extra bolt between them, so now there are 3 securing points at the top. 1 rivet had barely caught the top edge of the bracket. Terrible engineering design, way under built as well.
The lower rivets were next to impossible to reach, so I drilled 4 bolts out so I could fish them into place with mechanic's wire. Would have bought the well done HR kit, but had it apart and couldn't wait for parts.
Coat it all with white sealant to keep the moisture out.
Not terribly difficult, just a bit time consuming. Upside there are no wiring harnesses in the way to damage. Definitely a must-do for any of these vehicles.
I took photos, may link them sometime

Last edited by Rallyquest; 01-22-2021 at 08:23 PM.
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Old 02-15-2021, 01:59 PM   #265
ProdriveWRC
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+1 for the Humble Rumble kit. I didn't have any cracked welds but my dash was out so reinforcing it now just seemed to make sense. I only did the top two welds.

There aren't any wiring harnesses that go directly behind the top bolts, but there is a plastic harness strap that you'll drill through so make sure the inside bolt sits flush against the firewall. I was able to set it by hand but without the dash removed it could get frustrating.



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Old 02-23-2021, 06:22 PM   #266
AreExSeven
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Does anyone know the part number for the bracket that holds the clutch pedal assembly? I tried sport subaru of orlando and they have no idea what I'm trying to explain. They think I'm trying to buy the braket that holds the pedals to each other. And for that I have to buy the pedal assembly but what I want is what the assembly bolts on to. Mainly because the previous owner drilled out all the spot welds and installed rivets. Except the rivets arent long enough. So now everything is lose and my pedals shift left and right as I push on them. Seeing how I have 5 or 7 holes with stress cracks all around, I'd like to buy a new bracket so I dont have to fill in holes and such.

Anyone? Part number for the weldable bracket? Purdy plz
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Old 02-26-2021, 08:17 PM   #267
AreExSeven
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scott_gunn View Post
FYI - my rivets are holding up well (though it's only been 2.5 months) and it doesn't require removing the dash.
EVERYONE!!! For the love of god.... DO NOT RIVET THIS PART AT ALL.

Scott bro, this didnt hold up at all. When I bought the car from you the damn thing was sketchy and you said I can grease up the springs for the noise and change out the slave because engagement was low. After searching and researching, and finding out what you did to the car on accident, I bought a welder (never welded anything in my life) took the dash and everything related off, only to find out you completely missed the spot welds and the rivets didnt "rivet" on the back side. A simple "hey man you may have to weld the bracket that holds the pedals together" would of been great. I wish I can post pics on here but I dont know how -__-
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Old 02-27-2021, 02:52 AM   #268
Vancouver98STi
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Originally Posted by AreExSeven View Post

I wish I can post pics on here but I dont know how -__-
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Old 02-28-2021, 08:24 PM   #269
Doug05WRX
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Another vote for the Humble Rumble kit. Had it for about a year and finally got around to doing it. All 6 spot welds were starting to crack, so it was a good time to do it. Took me a few hours, the weld closest to the driver's side gave me the most trouble. I had difficulty drilling at the proper angle on that one so the bit kept sliding. Ended up making a slightly larger hole than I needed, so I was very generous with the sealant around that one. All in all a few hours well spent
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Old 03-01-2021, 03:38 AM   #270
subiscoobie
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Hi. Whoever put rivets in the firewall was stupid(scott_Gunn). Sounds like a quick sale.
You can go to rally sport direct and buy brackets for the clutch and brake MC. Torque solutions clutch MC brace: TQSTS-SU-568(RalleySportDirect)$184, and GrimmSpeed Brake MC brace: GRM 091029 $95(Ralleysportdirect), and also, "HumbleRumble.ca" for the spot weld fix with instructions and how to video. I also have all of this on my car.
Best of luck

Last edited by subiscoobie; 03-01-2021 at 03:48 AM.
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Old 04-01-2021, 03:03 PM   #271
foom
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Dark Gray Metallic

Default Humble Rumble kit

I would recommend humble rumble. Finally did mine a few weeks ago and no more huge brake pedal when pressing down on clutch. The best thing is no clicks or squeaks.
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Old 05-02-2022, 01:18 PM   #272
BlueBjorn
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Default Installed humble rumble kit...now have clutch master cylinder flex

Hi everyone,

As the title reads, I recently installed the humble rumble kit to fix the cracked spot welds. 09 wrx sedan.And for the first couple days all was well, no noise or flex. Today started getting a new squeaking sound while using clutch. What I found was that the noise was coming from the clutch master cylinder flexing on the firewall. This was not an issue prior to installing the humble rumble kit. I'm not saying the kit caused it, probably just the force is being transferred now to a weaker part on the car now that the firewall is reinforced.

Anyone run into anything similar? Should I look into buying braces for the master cylinder of possibly the ITS bracket?
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Old 05-30-2022, 04:11 PM   #273
Brock31
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enginuity is cool

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Can't the same kit be made with a few screws, wasters and bolts from McMaster Carr?

https://www.mcmaster.com/set-screws/...atures~vented/

https://www.mcmaster.com/jam-nuts/su...in-hex-nuts-8/

https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-wa...t-head-screws/

3/8-16 Vented stainless set screw 1"
3/8-16 stainless jam nut
3/8 - M10 stainless Belleville Spring Lock Washers
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Old 03-18-2024, 02:43 PM   #274
pnevmatos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brock31 View Post
Can't the same kit be made with a few screws, wasters and bolts from McMaster Carr?

https://www.mcmaster.com/set-screws/...atures~vented/

https://www.mcmaster.com/jam-nuts/su...in-hex-nuts-8/

https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-wa...t-head-screws/

3/8-16 Vented stainless set screw 1"
3/8-16 stainless jam nut
3/8 - M10 stainless Belleville Spring Lock Washers
Probably lol

Try it and let us know how it goes

Adding my $0.02 to the rest of the thread:

2011 WRX.

Humble rumble kit fixed my brake pedal shifting to the left. Did not fix the squeaky noise. I can't find a hairline crack in the pedal assembly anywhere, but I'm going to try replacing the assembly and will report back with results.
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