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08-10-2013, 03:30 PM | #26 |
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I know its an old thread, but, extremely helpful. I am about to do this, just curious, since I have an opensource type tune from a laptop, if I do this, will the car get narfed up? Hopefully it doesn't as Ron is out of town, so no tuning available until next week.
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08-11-2013, 05:29 AM | #27 | |
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Quote:
only thing that would be "narfed up" is if the tune is already this wont affect the tune...but if the tune has altered any of the parameters that are 'reset' by doing this...then it may not work. you wont break anything if you try |
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08-11-2013, 05:37 AM | #28 | |
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Quote:
the dbw cars have to re-calibrate the electronic throttle and sync the throttle pedal to the throttle body after you disconnect the battery this calibration/sync is lost this is why it is SO VERY IMPORTANT TO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE PEDAL AT ALL OR HAVE ANY ACCESSORIES ON after you reconnect the battery and try to start the car if you move the throttle pedal...ya screw this process up so...if you lose electrical power or disconnect the battery you MUST turn the key to the last position before the starter engages and wait 10 seconds for the recalibrate/sync to occur letting the car idle also resets the fuel trims as the car warms up....moving the throttle pedal screws this up once all is happy happy and you turn the car off and TAKE THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION!!!!! for at least 10 seconds this locks the new calibrations/sync/trims in and you are good to go so that is what is up with this and why you do NOT WANT TO TOUCH THE THROTTLE PEDAL AT ALL DURING THIS PROCESS |
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10-30-2013, 05:40 PM | #29 |
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Reset worked for me
Just wanted to add to this that the reset worked quite easily this morning on my 2006 2.5i Impreza with 127,900 miles on it and a host of other previous issues. (note to all: buying cars, even Subaru's, that were in a front-end collision can lead to issues. Many, many issues.)
I had a blown fuse to the left side headlights that actually lead to a short that melted the light bulb housing/connector, and after replacing that bulb, connector and fuse the car would idle at 100 rpm or less. The reset put it back at 500 rpm or just a hair under. |
01-03-2014, 05:42 PM | #30 |
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I hope I'm not pulling up an old thread here, but can I just say that I'm not sure how well this worked for me?
I pulled the battery, before a long drive (FL->TX->MI) and after stalling all over the place I found this thread and Uncle Scotty's steps saved me. But I performed the steps as exactly as I could, but along during the first half of the trip my car still felt unsure about its idle and dipped out a couple times. I would give it gas, and it'd climb RPM but when it fell would fall close to zero and hiccup back up (or stall). It quit doing that after about 1300miles and hasn't done it since. Is this break-in period normal? or could it be something else ? (I was wondering if it was a dirty tb/iacv, but it as been running smooth since then). Getting a new battery and I'm nervous about the reset again now. |
01-03-2014, 10:25 PM | #31 |
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ya didnt follow the whole process EXACTLY
it MUST be done EXACTLY the way i posted it or it may have isues like you had just leave it alone or do it EXACTLY....if the temp is below freezing...just leave it alone |
01-03-2014, 11:44 PM | #32 |
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Well, I'll try again this time.
But what do you mean if it's below freezing I should leave it alone? Don't do the resync/reset until it's warmed up outside? |
01-04-2014, 12:24 AM | #33 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
if it is cold enough that there is any ice/snow outside that isnt melting....just leave it alone no...on second though...just leave it alone if it is starting and running and not stalling...leave it alone |
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01-19-2014, 03:11 AM | #34 |
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This is unrelated to the battery issue, BUT I got the same symptoms and dashboard lights when I was driving home tonight in a bad snowstorm, I drove most of the way through the winding countryside I live in driving in 3rd gear (auto trans, 2003 Legacy). I got into my driveway and just as I was pulling up to the wall I park in front of, I took my foot off the pedal to brake and then all of the dash lights lit up (brake, AT oil temp, etc.) and then stopped. The car stayed on and was in drive, but if I took my foot off the brake, it went backwards. I ended up just leaving it in the middle of my driveway and will try starting it back up and moving it in the morning.
My car did this one time in the winter last year too. I got in it the next day and it drove fine and hasn't done that again until just now. Was it just from driving it in 3rd too long? Any thoughts? Last edited by 'Buru in the Burgh; 01-19-2014 at 03:29 AM. |
01-29-2014, 09:26 AM | #35 |
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So, when I do this...during which of the steps do I touch the throttle pedal?
JK. Its an old thread that got resurrected but I was having hunting issues that I just could not find a damned cause for, & I've fixed a lot of hunting issues. Even did this procedure, however, I did it wrong. Didn't do the "taking the key out of the ignition for at least 10 seconds bit." Thanks Scotty, this fixed the problem. For what it's worth, this was on a standalone unit too, AEM 2, & it still worked. |
07-01-2014, 11:50 AM | #36 |
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Help
Should I wait till the system check ligh goes off on radio before turning off
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07-17-2014, 09:46 PM | #37 |
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Vehicle:2009 Outback Silver/Black |
Thanks Uncle Scotty!
Thank you for the instructions. That worked like a charm. I've been driving around with my car idling to death for over a week now since I got my new battery. I wish I had looked this up 2 years ago when I had the last battery replaced. Instead I paid the suby dealership a ridiculous amount of money to probably do the same thing. This time I didn't have the funds, so this saved me some dough.
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08-26-2014, 11:11 PM | #38 |
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Impreza 2009
Whoaa! It seems you are a savior, Uncle Scotty, I hope you can help me too...
I have an automatic Impreza 2009, I got its transmission fixed, then it wouldn't run well, a scanner showed up that the MAF sensor was damaged, so I got a new one and connected it. The thing now is that the car doesn't stay on, but if I unplug the MAF the car stays and runs (not at its best, though). I tried doing the reset you published, but I turn my car on and it seems it accelerates and then goes down and after a second it goes off... I think the throttle body might need a reset or callibration, I would really like to know what you think... Or if anyone has an idea, I would really appreciate it! |
08-26-2014, 11:28 PM | #39 |
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Impreza 2009
By the way, the scanner doesn't show any thing else at all, neither the new MAF nor any other damage...
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08-27-2014, 02:52 AM | #40 | |
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Quote:
and failing that being the fix, take it back to where the transmission was done and have them fix what they ****ed up... |
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10-25-2014, 06:13 PM | #41 |
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Thanks Scotty!
Wanted to chime in with my story.
I had to take the battery out to replace a headlight. Afterward it idled terribly, stalled often and CEL came on. Had some time today to work on it. I went ahead and cleaned the throttle body just to be thorough. Followed Scotty's steps and now my car is running like normal. It's an '05 Impreza 2.5rs. I'm no mechanic or automobile engineer but this is the strangest thing I've heard of; if you have to do it every time you disconnect the battery. Scotty, you said it's because something becomes corrupt in the ECU? This shouldn't happen normally if a battery goes dead or you have to replace/remove it for some reason? Thanks Scotty!! Thans NASIOC!! Thanks Google!! Thanks internet!! This is a great forum and I'm happy I found it. Every one have a fantastic day! Last edited by trashbox; 10-25-2014 at 06:14 PM. Reason: tYpO |
10-26-2014, 07:46 PM | #42 | |
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d00000000000000000000000000d |
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10-31-2014, 11:17 AM | #43 |
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Would using one of those little battery doohickeys you stick in the lighter socket while doing the battery change prevent this?
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10-31-2014, 07:09 PM | #44 |
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11-26-2014, 12:11 PM | #45 |
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2005 Obxt 125k
My son had his battery changed while at school at a Auto Zone near the end of Oct. He immediately called me after the install saying he was having hard starts and the idle was bottoming out ALONG with CEL and flashing cruise light. He's been driving it for a month this way. He is now home for Thanksgiving and I'm trouble shooting.
I find you Uncle Scotty this morning. I begin to follow your instructions BUT become impatient because the CEL and flashing cruise remain on. I don't wait until the fan comes on........blaaa. I start over? Or do I have other issues or is my issue a poor follower of directions? Few more notes: * Allowed car to cool and did the hard reset again and followed every step * CEL and flashing cruise still on * Upon 10 sec wait and removal of key for the final restart and drive, the restart was a hard start! * Drove car for 20 minutes and got fresh gas. * Upon starting the car at the gas station I turned the key to sweep gauges, WAITED (put seat belt on) turned key to start and it started without hesitation - CEL and flashing cruise still on though. *******New battery not fully charged??********** Also stopped by local Subaru dealership and spoke to a "Specialist" and he said he'd never heard of it...whatever!! This issue is all over the web. Last edited by Shandy25; 11-26-2014 at 03:14 PM. |
11-26-2014, 03:41 PM | #46 |
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You have an issue. Read the DTC with an OBDII scanner.
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11-26-2014, 05:10 PM | #47 |
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11-26-2014, 06:51 PM | #48 |
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there is a fuse that sometimes blows when the battery is charged/replaced if the cables aren't handled properly which can cause this issue....I forget which one it is, off hand
search the couple threads that detail that one.... |
11-26-2014, 06:56 PM | #49 |
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11-27-2014, 11:35 AM | #50 |
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Fuse!!!!!
Found the thread you spoke of Uncle Scotty - ECU 7.5 fuse under hood was fried!! Replaced and car started without hesitation and no dash lights.
It is a good day. Thanks |
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