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Old 07-03-2020, 04:58 PM   #1
Yellowbeard
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Default I have amazing(ly bad) luck. - ECU Main Switch 2006 WRX

OK, So I was replacing my 5MT with a 6MT which necessitated the installation of a wheel speed sensor.

I did that. Then I hooked the wheel speed sensor to what I THOUGHT was the speed sensor input on the ECU (see pics below) but, since I had the ECU UPSIDE DOWN turns out (as far as I can tell) to have been the "Main Switch." (Pin 12 on B135, as far as I can tell - pictures below).

I drove the car and fed some(how much? EDIT - +/- 5 volts in a square wave) voltage to this for maybe 2 minutes before I figured out the speedo wasn't working. Speedo since rewired to PROPER

I have had ALL SORTS of wackiness since.

The car will drive GREAT for 10 minutes and then start mis-firing under load, causing super herky-jerkies. After I get home, the car accessory lights will come on but it otherwise acts like the battery is dead (it's not, or, anyway, the car will start fine after just a few minutes on a trickle charger - also battery has tested good twice).

Oh, also, I've checked and the alternator seems to be fine (removed negative lead while running for about 10 second and car kept running).

The cruise control, which worked flawlessly before, now works for about 3-5 seconds and then stops working and starts blinking.

The fuel gauge is now super weird and it leads me to the only code the car has thrown, which is P0463 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Input (which led me to think I had fried the fuel sensor and that was the problem - there are fuel plugins nearby on the ECU).

First question: Can anyone tell me if I've identified the proper pinout? Is this "Main Switch" or am I mixed up?

Second Question: What do I do now? Replace the ECU? If so, how difficult is that?

Third question: Catch-all for anyone to advise any way they see fit. I know I did a dumb thing. Help please!

Thanks in advance.


I'm pointing at the wire in question. The bared wire to the right is speed sensor input.




Here's B135 unplugged with the wire in question - green with blue stripe.




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Last edited by Yellowbeard; 07-06-2020 at 10:57 PM.
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Old 07-04-2020, 12:31 PM   #2
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Default New Symptom

OK. This time I drove the car. Same symptoms. Drove fine, then started missing badly (but intermittently) on acceleration (even when I stayed completely off the turbo). I hope I am not mistaking "pre-detonation" for "missing"

Drove home.

Parked in garage.

Car wouldn't start (turn the key to "ignition" and nothing.

When I turn the key on and off subsequent times, weird stuff happens. Example: sometimes the low fuel light comes on and sometimes it does not, in spite of the fuel tank being full. The fuel gauge itself changes readings by 20% or so (even though I just topped off the tank about 10 miles ago).

So I let it sit for 10 minutes.

When I came back out, it turned over (battery was NOT being charged during this time).

However, it wouldn't start. In fact, it acted a WHOLE LOT like when you change a MAP.

I tried it three more times then it started.


More and more I think sending some voltage to the "Main Switch" circuit buggered the ECU. How do i check that? Can I tell with the Access Port somehow? I DID download the ECU memory, for what that's worth.

Do I need to match the numbers on mine (I would guess "yes.")?

If I end up having to replace the ECU, what are all the steps?

So far it seems like:

Somehow get VIN from old car onto new ECU (either reprogram, reflash, or move an EPROM on the board - after all the trouble I've had, I think I want to go for option 1 or 2).

Then just plug and play? I am assuming that if I change the VIN then I do NOT have to reprogram keys, etc. but we all know what happens when one assumes....

Thanks in advance for any help.

Last edited by Yellowbeard; 07-04-2020 at 12:36 PM. Reason: added info
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Old 07-04-2020, 12:48 PM   #3
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Answer to my question about replacing the ECU SEEMS to be here:

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho...9#post46357619

in post 7. Can anyone tell me if this matches their experience?

Does anyone have a matched set of ECU, ignition, and keys they want to sell? I can give you the part numbers.
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Old 07-04-2020, 12:50 PM   #4
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Old 07-04-2020, 01:07 PM   #5
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Old 07-04-2020, 02:01 PM   #6
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From what I can tell from the pictures I think you have correctly stated that the grn/blu wire is the Main Switch for the CC system. When the switch is ON it supplies 12 volt power to the ECU. I doubt you damaged the ECU due to that wiring mistake. If you turn the ignition ON and nothing happens you will have to check the power to and from the ignition switch.
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Old 07-04-2020, 02:06 PM   #7
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Default I have amazing (bad) luck. - ECU Main Switch 2006 WRX

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar4 View Post
From what I can tell from the pictures I think you have correctly stated that the grn/blu wire is the Main Switch for the CC system. When the switch is ON it supplies 12 volt power to the ECU. I doubt you damaged the ECU due to that wiring mistake. If you turn the ignition ON and nothing happens you will have to check the power to and from the ignition switch.


Thanks for the response! Especially thanks for confirming that I have ID’d the correct wire.

I felt the same when I noted how much power goes through that wire. Plus I have doubt that the wheel speed sensor is adding much to the mix.

However, it remains the case that I am having tons of electrical gremlins now.

Could I have buggered something on the OTHER end of that wire? Say a relay?

I appreciate the help!

I assume that replacing the ecu won’t hurt anything OTHER than my wallet and time. Correct?

Last edited by Yellowbeard; 07-04-2020 at 02:37 PM.
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Old 07-04-2020, 06:56 PM   #8
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A-Ha!

Did I fry the cruise control somehow? It HAS been broken since this happened. It's one of the symptoms.

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Old 07-04-2020, 10:57 PM   #9
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You left out some good information in the diagram you posted. If you follow the GB wire tied to pin 4 of connector B68 you will see that it is tied to fuse 18 in the dash fuse panel. Verify that fuse has power on both sides of it by using the slits on top of each side of the fuse while the ignition is ON. You may have blown that fuse. I don't think your ECU is damaged and I would really make sure there was proof of that before spending good money on another ECU which could end up being a waste of funds. Relays are pretty bullet proof to damage. It is electronic circuits that can be easily damaged by making wiring errors.

Last edited by Cougar4; 07-06-2020 at 03:05 AM.
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Old 07-05-2020, 05:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar4 View Post
You left out some good information in the diagram you posted. If you follow the GB wire tied to pin 4 of connector B68 you will see that it is tied to fuse 18 in the dash fuse panel. Verify that fuse has power on both sides of it by using the slits on top of each side of the fuse while the ignition is ON. You may have blown that fuse. I don't think you ECU is damaged and I would really make sure there was proof of that before spending good money on another ECU which could end up being a waste of funds. Relays are pretty bullet proof to damage. It is electronic circuits that can be easily damaged by making wiring errors.
Excellent points, all.

I had already checked all the fuses (none blown). I did try a test light on 18 after you mentioned this and briefly got a very weak light (but I think I just wan't making good contact).

Can the actual fuse board blow?

If it's a circuit, how do I figure that out, is my problem.

And the types and variety of gremlins I am getting is SO weird.
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Old 07-06-2020, 03:03 AM   #11
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I suggest you retest the power to the fuse. If you don't get a bright light it means that there is a problem with the power lead to that fuse position and there is resistance in the line that shouldn't be there. Power to that fuse and some others comes from the green wire going to the ignition switch.

Check to make sure the gray 10 pin connector going to the dash fuse panel is making good connection. If that is okay then I think you will need to get a voltmeter and back probe the green wire on that connector to make sure you are getting proper voltage on that wire. If you don't have over 12 volts there then suspect the ignition switch contacts. A faulty connection to power there would cause all kinds of problems to occur. Just like you are experiencing.

Last edited by Cougar4; 07-06-2020 at 03:18 AM.
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Old 07-06-2020, 03:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar4 View Post
I suggest you retest the power to the fuse. If you don't get a bright light it means that there is a problem with the power lead to that fuse position and there is resistance in the line that shouldn't be there. Power to that fuse and some others comes from the green wire going to the ignition switch.

Check to make sure the gray 10 pin connector going to the dash fuse panel is making good connection. If that is okay then I think you will need to get a voltmeter and back probe the green wire on that connector to make sure you are getting proper voltage on that wire. If you don't have over 12 volts there then suspect the ignition switch contacts. A faulty connection to power there would cause all kinds of problems to occur. Just like you are experiencing.
***EDIT*** - re-read your post more carefully. So this may be my problem. ONLY 10.2 Volts at the fuse (consistently). This is with the key in the "ignition on" but car not started position.


First of all: THANK YOU for your help on this. I have been banging my head on the wall.

OK. Started out with checking voltage at the fuse. It was hard to get my probes into the hole, so I broke apart a fuse and used the legs to get probes on. I got a VERY dim light in the test lamp. So I put the volt meter on it.

10.2 Volts. I think? I suck at voltmeter fu. So I posted pics below. You can tell how much I use my voltmeter by how little dust is on it.

So now I need to back-trace this wire? I guess I am trying to find a place, after which, it DOES read 12 and then I have found my problem? Maybe?

When I probe that wire, I assume my black lead will be to ground and I will probe with the red into the green wire, right?



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Old 07-06-2020, 04:49 PM   #13
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Right at the place where the column ignition switch plugs into the plug coming from the car (on the car side of the plug) that green wire is giving me 25.8 (I think - might have been 25.2).

Not sure if that's good (am getting ready to look at the manual). Then I'll trace in-between. Hoping the electrical diagram can help there too.
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Old 07-06-2020, 10:47 PM   #14
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I shot some video today of a short drive (about 2 miles) and all the electrical gremlins I am currently having. Four videos, each less than a minute.

This is the basic behavior every time I drive the vehicle.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...haHH6qVviebBmt
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Old 07-06-2020, 10:48 PM   #15
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Oh, worth noting that the hazard lights also don't work. Not sure what that means.
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Old 07-06-2020, 10:50 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar4 View Post
I suggest you retest the power to the fuse. If you don't get a bright light it means that there is a problem with the power lead to that fuse position and there is resistance in the line that shouldn't be there. Power to that fuse and some others comes from the green wire going to the ignition switch.

Check to make sure the gray 10 pin connector going to the dash fuse panel is making good connection. If that is okay then I think you will need to get a voltmeter and back probe the green wire on that connector to make sure you are getting proper voltage on that wire. If you don't have over 12 volts there then suspect the ignition switch contacts. A faulty connection to power there would cause all kinds of problems to occur. Just like you are experiencing.
By the way: If it is ignition switch contacts then what does that mean? Just replace the ignition switch?

Thanks!
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Old 07-06-2020, 10:59 PM   #17
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It does appear you have a power wire connection problem somewhere before the fuse panel.

In order to check the fuses all you need to do is check each side of the top of the fuse with your probe. Notice that there are two metal tabs on the top of each fuse. Those tabs are connected to each side of the fuse element. If both tabs have the same voltage on them then the fuse is good.

Your test light seems to verify that there is a problem before the fuse. I assume all you get at best is a dim light when you check the fuse lead position. I am not sure what the 25.8 is but would guess that is millivolts (.025v) you were reading while there was a load on the circuit. Indicating a bad connection to power.

In your picture I see you set your meter to read voltage but you selected AC volts instead of DC volts. Move the selector switch to the left side of OFF. Your meter isn't blocking the DC component in the AC mode so you still got a reading though it is not a correct one.

You may need to replace the ignition switch contacts but perhaps not. If the trouble is there then we may be able to fix it without a replacement.

EDIT:

Another thing we should check is the white wire going to the ignition switch. Check the voltage on that wire to see if is low there. If it is low then the trouble is before the ignition switch. There is a connection between the switch and the panel under the hood that could causing the trouble. Connector B128.

Last edited by Cougar4; 07-06-2020 at 11:43 PM.
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Old 07-07-2020, 11:31 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar4 View Post
It does appear you have a power wire connection problem somewhere before the fuse panel.

In order to check the fuses all you need to do is check each side of the top of the fuse with your probe. Notice that there are two metal tabs on the top of each fuse. Those tabs are connected to each side of the fuse element. If both tabs have the same voltage on them then the fuse is good.

Your test light seems to verify that there is a problem before the fuse. I assume all you get at best is a dim light when you check the fuse lead position. I am not sure what the 25.8 is but would guess that is millivolts (.025v) you were reading while there was a load on the circuit. Indicating a bad connection to power.

In your picture I see you set your meter to read voltage but you selected AC volts instead of DC volts. Move the selector switch to the left side of OFF. Your meter isn't blocking the DC component in the AC mode so you still got a reading though it is not a correct one.

You may need to replace the ignition switch contacts but perhaps not. If the trouble is there then we may be able to fix it without a replacement.

EDIT:

Another thing we should check is the white wire going to the ignition switch. Check the voltage on that wire to see if is low there. If it is low then the trouble is before the ignition switch. There is a connection between the switch and the panel under the hood that could causing the trouble. Connector B128.


Well that was an incredibly useful lesson on volt meters and reading fuses. Thank you! Practice makes better. By the way, that’s why I posted a picture of the whole meter. I wasn’t sure I was on the right setting. Thanks!

Re-reading then just now using everything you said I got either 11.9 or 12v on each side of every fuse in the dash panel except for 5 and 10. After looking at those do, I turned on the headlights and got slightly lower readings (11.6 or so) on them (though I assume that was just because of draw). I guess that means all my fuses are good but not much else.

By the way, the hazard lights DO work. I’m an idiot (so much so that I’d prefer not to relate how in this case).

I took a reading from the black wire with the white stripe pictured below. I got 12.19v



It’s 12.20v where the wire from the key ignition plugs in under the dash.



I am using this setting in the meter, btw.




I don’t know what I’m going to do to repay you.


Just to make sure this is not the wrong path:

I did a 6MT swap into this vehicle. I was having NONE of these problems before and didn’t notice them before trying to hook up the wheel speed processor either.

Just to be clear on that part: it reads signal from each twisted pair of wires coming from the wheels to the abs unit. I have all four twisted pairs tapped near the abs control unit.

I only noticed these symptoms after hooking up that unit, once, very briefly, to the wrong pin on B125 coming out of the ecu.

However: I did have trouble starting the car the very first couple of times after replacing the transmission. I put that down to a low battery from the car having sat for a long time.

But I wonder, now, if there was something else I could have missed (or broken) during the install that could be causing these issues.

Just trying to make sure I have relayed all pertinent info.

Thank you!
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Old 07-07-2020, 03:52 PM   #19
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Well don't feel bad for making simple mistakes because we all make them, and when we learn from them it makes us wiser in the future. Your meter is now set up correctly to take DC voltage readings and you have also selected the best range to measure 12 volts, so good going.

I assume you now have good voltage readings on fuse 18 and it seems the other fuses are getting good power to them also. If that is good then check the voltage on pin B12 on the ECU when the 'Main Switch' is pushed on. You should get near battery voltage at that point. Your test light should be nice and bright when you touch fuse 18 with the probe tip.


Here is some info to help with error code P0463.
https://www.fixdapp.com/blog/p0463-code

Last edited by Cougar4; 07-07-2020 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 07-07-2020, 05:01 PM   #20
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Default I have amazing(ly bad) luck. - ECU Main Switch 2006 WRX

AHA!

Nice bright light at fuse 18 on both poles (now that I know how to do that right). 11.8v

NO light and only 1.1 volt at ecu plug 12 (the green with blue stripe wire in my picture). I got 1.3v when I probed my ground for a slightly better connection.

All this is with condition: key ignition switch on but car not running.

And, as the manual says, there SHOULD be in the nature of 12 volts in that wire (all this supposing I have all my pin counts correct, etc.).

With condition: engine RUNNING this switched to NEGATIVE 1.3v which I don’t understand at all.

Now that seems like progress!
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Old 07-07-2020, 06:14 PM   #21
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When you made the voltage check on pin B12 did you press the Main Switch button while monitor the voltage? It is a switch and it needs to be CLOSED in order to pass on the power to the ECU. For the reversed polarity reading you may have reversed your probes and used the red lead on the chassis ground. If that isn't the case then something changed with the circuit inside the ECU when the engine was running. It is hard to say at this point if that is a bad thing or of no concern. If the switch was closed when you took the voltage reading then something is wrong with the wire connection from the fuse to the ECU connection. The wire has a bad connection somewhere on it. When it is normal you will have 12 volts on the lead while the switch is ON. I assume the switch is just a momentary switch but it may not be, not sure. A momentary switch will only be closed as long as it is being pushed on.

Last edited by Cougar4; 07-07-2020 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 07-07-2020, 08:28 PM   #22
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Oh! Sorry. When you mentioned “main switch” I though you were referring to the key ignition switch.

No. In that case, I did not push it. Nor do I know where it is TOO push it. Sorry!

I definitely didn’t reverse the probes because I had clipped the black probe to the frame point I was using and checked twice because that seemed so weird.

Can you advise as to the location of this button, please?
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Old 07-08-2020, 12:46 AM   #23
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The switch should be the one used to turn the cruise control system ON.
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Old 07-08-2020, 09:44 AM   #24
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Default I have amazing(ly bad) luck. - ECU Main Switch 2006 WRX

Ah! Ok. That sounds familiar from something I saw in the FSM now that you say it. Sorry. Makes sense.

Note that under no condition was the cruise control active, as the car must be going around 20mph plus to get it to actually come on (as I am sure you are aware). I’ll have to get a helper if I need to test it that way, but it only works for about 2-4 seconds when I use it.


First test

Condition 1: ignition switch on, car not started, cruise control on: .86v (I think the difference was the quality of my ground).

Condition 2: car idling (didn’t want to start the first few tries - lights all came on but no turning over at all), cruise control button on: fluctuating around -1.36, maybe as high (...low?) as -1.6 or so.

Tested again, pictures below.

Test one condition: ignition switch on, cruise control main switch on, car not running.




Test two condition: ignition switch on, cruise control main switch on, car running.





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Old 07-08-2020, 02:07 PM   #25
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In your second test picture I can see that the CRUISE light is on so it seems the switch is doing what it should be, turning on the cc system. Unless that switch is a momentary switch the voltage you read is not correct. There should be battery voltage there if the switch is closed. You should be able to push the switch down and HOLD it there while checking the voltage. If you now read 12 volts doing it that way then it is a momentary switch. If you still don't get 12 volts then it seems there is a bad connection somewhere. Probably in the steering roll connector. Another place to check for the same fused power is pin 25 of connector B136. You should have 12 volts there at all times, unless you have a clutch and it is pushed in .
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