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11-01-2016, 05:51 PM | #26 |
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I have no opinion as I have never used it; I would run a Google search first, then ask in the transmission forum.
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11-01-2016, 05:58 PM | #27 |
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Rebuilding the R180
Sorry posted in the wrong thread..
Last edited by Motown65; 11-04-2016 at 09:29 PM. |
11-05-2016, 08:18 PM | #28 |
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Any tips on removing the outer bearing area on the side plate?
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11-06-2016, 01:35 PM | #29 |
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You mean removing the bearing itself? You either need a press or you need to cut it off (carefully). It's not an easy task.
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11-08-2016, 11:31 PM | #30 |
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I meant the outer race in the side plates. Here's a trick some guys my buddy knows did to get them out.
Also before you do the figure 8s is initial torque stupid high? |
11-09-2016, 12:47 AM | #31 |
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Buy a Harbor Freight bearing pulling/pushing kit - $60-100 and it'll be the only one you need that isn't a press.
What do you mean "is initial torque stupid high"? |
11-09-2016, 10:53 AM | #32 |
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Rebuilding the R180
So I get the rear diff in the car last night and go to do the lift right rear test and it's not breaking loose.
When I screwed the lsd back down the top spring plate just caught the case. It didn't seem like it was too tight or anything. Also this is with no oil besides what I rubbed on the plates during assembly. Last edited by Motown65; 11-09-2016 at 12:16 PM. |
11-09-2016, 12:39 PM | #33 |
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Did you measure the entire plate stack-up as described in the instructions? The stack-up will protrude above the case lip - screwing the end plate down will compress the stack.
How high does your torque wrench go? The break-free torque should be 80+ ft-lbs. |
11-09-2016, 12:43 PM | #34 |
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Rebuilding the R180
It wasn't breaking at 150 and I didn't technically measure the thickness of the stack just everything separately
I didn't know if it was going to be crazy high until you drove and broke it in. Edit 1 -according to my measurements I had the very minimal amount of clearance (.06mm). I could not get it to break until after the 30min break in and then I could only barely move it with all my weight on it (130 lbs lol). I'm guessing it's around 200ft lbs Break away. This is with all 1.7 plates. Since the clearance is .06 to .24 mm I'm thinking I just filled the clearance and the case is holding it down as well as the spring plates. I'm going to rip the rear end back out and swap two 1.7 plates for two 1.6 plates hopefully making it identical to Mrsaturns. Edit 2 -I believe I made the assumption that the plates were dead on there numbers when all 6 could be as much as .3mm over or under. This makes measuring the assembled stack without spring plates necessary. Last edited by Motown65; 11-11-2016 at 01:52 PM. |
03-14-2017, 12:41 AM | #35 |
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Pm'd you.
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03-14-2017, 01:07 PM | #36 | |
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Did you lubricate all plates/discs during assembly? You NEED to completely cover them in 90PA (or your desired rear diff. oil).
Also, from your PM: Quote:
You didn't reuse the old 1.5 mm bellevelle spring did you? If you have your ramp assembly height (mine was 65.99 mm), I can give you the proper thicknesses to use. Assuming the same ramp assembly height as me, you should have used 2x 1.6 mm discs and 1x 1.7 mm discs per side. Last edited by mrsaturn7085; 03-14-2017 at 01:45 PM. |
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03-15-2017, 05:51 PM | #37 |
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Based on your ramp assembly thickness (via PM) of 65.70 mm, the correct thickness selection is:
4 x 1.6 mm and 2 x 1.8 mm -or- 2 x 1.6 mm and 4 x 1.7 mm (my preference) You should definitely be using the new 1.85 mm bellevelle washers. The original discs/plates *might* be worn-out, but the original 1.5 mm bellevelle washer will DEFINITELY be worn-out. |
11-09-2017, 10:47 PM | #38 |
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Given that the 60 degree ramps are discontinued and impossible to find, has anyone considered having a machine shop machine down the 45 degree ramps to make them out to 60 degrees?
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03-05-2019, 06:21 AM | #39 |
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sry posted in wrong thread
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03-27-2019, 02:01 PM | #40 |
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You would want to make sure the shop was familiar with the heat treatment needed after the machine work; otherwise the ramps will not live very long.
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05-31-2019, 04:20 PM | #41 | |
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Quote:
[OEM] pressure ring | 1.7 FD_it | 1.6 FP_et | 1.7 FD_it | 1.6 FP_et | 1.6 FP_et | 1.5 SP_et | case [rebuild kit] pressure ring | 1.7 FD_it | 1.6 FP_et | 1.7 FD_it | 1.6 FP_et | 1.6 FP_et | 1.85 SP_et | case [60deg + rebuild kit] pressure ring | 1.6 FP_et | 1.7 FD_it | 1.7 FP_et | 1.7 FD_it | 1.7 FP_et | 1.85 SP_et | case [add NISMO to OEM] pressure ring | 1.7 FD_it | 1.6 FP_et | 1.9 NISMO FD_it | 1.6 FP_et | 1.65 NISMO SD_it | 1.5 SP_et | case [NISMO + rebuild kit] pressure ring | 1.7 FD_it | 1.6 FP_et | 1.9 NISMO FD_it | 1.6 FP_et | 1.65 NISMO SD_it | 1.85 SP_et | case et = external tab it = internal tab Last edited by JarHarms; 06-09-2019 at 10:05 AM. |
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06-09-2019, 03:17 PM | #42 |
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The 45 and 60 degree ramps are machined to the same thickness so you just take your measurements as usual and rebuild to spec. 60 deg ramps just make the diff. work faster since it has less ramp incline to fight against.
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05-21-2020, 11:14 PM | #43 |
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I ordered the RacingDiffs STi R180 plate & disc set. According to RacingDiffs their plates & discs differ from the OEM ones in 3 ways. Firstly, there are no grooves on the plates. Secondly, the discs have holes cut into them. Lastly, the plates have a special molybdenum-ceramic coating which improves life while also offering greater lock. These plates offer typically offer 30% greater lock in their testing in different vehicles.
OEM discs & Plates vs. RacingDiffs Thanks MrSaturn for this contribution, especially the comment regarding the issue of accelerated wear of belleville washers. I am in communication with RacingDiffs to have improved belleville washers made for the STi R180. They presently make improved belleville washers for BMW LSD's which are "extra hardened to 55 HRC for greater longevity and better performance." Last edited by 2JZ; 05-23-2020 at 10:05 AM. Reason: 1 |
05-26-2020, 03:25 PM | #44 |
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RacingDiffs is updating their kit now to include spring plates with made from stronger and harder material. They are suggesting 1.50mm thickness.
The RacingDiffs kit has no choice between friction plate thickness; you only have 2mm friction discs and 1.5mm friction plates. So during a rebuild you can't control for stack height. Is 1.50mm spring plates a safe choice then? Here is an R180 explosion diagram with NISMO spring discs added in case its useful to anyone. Last edited by 2JZ; 05-28-2020 at 09:09 AM. |
06-24-2020, 05:41 PM | #45 |
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@2JZ - any updates on your RacingDiffs upgrade? I am considering purchasing them to refresh my rear diff.
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12-04-2020, 04:38 AM | #46 |
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@mrsaturn7085 Thank you so much for this topic. I took me a while to understand everything in detail. I measured everything super precisely (depth micrometer) with high end tools. All measurements are averaged out of 4 individual measurements (case, ramps, disks/plates).
It turned out that the disks and plates are basically new with little to no wear. I am now going to install an additional laser cut shim in order to increase preload. It will be installed between spring plate and fricition plate. A= 88.315mm B= 2.506mm C= 0.716mm Ramp assy= 65.96mm F=86.571mm Clearance with OE plates: 0.223mm --- almost no preload Clearance after shimming: 0.123mm --- I guess around 90-100 ft/lbs preload, to be confirmed after installation It is all doable and no rocket science with proper measuring tools. Get a PH3 screwdriver first, otherwise you are going to need a drill in order to remove the phillips bolts below the ring gear (ask me how I know). Bolts are standard M6x12, I replaced them by torx head bolts. In my opinion shimming is a good idea with this differential as there are a few unused sides of the friciton disks (just flip them around). With a shim in place, I doubt there will be a difference compared to all new plates. Last edited by 240ZL31; 02-16-2021 at 10:43 AM. |
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