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Old 07-06-2009, 11:30 AM   #26
the suicidal eggroll
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxwhat View Post
For one, the brian crower cams do little in terms of peak power gains compared to what you lose under the curve.
Indeed, very low-lift
Even the Kelford 264s have significantly more lift than the BC 272s
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Old 07-06-2009, 11:39 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
Why do you recommend the stock cams? Just curious.
You should stay with the stock bumpers because I dont think the engine will be moving enough air to compensate even for a mild camshaft. When your at the track with more of an aggressive tune at around 450 WHP and more boost, im sure youll will notice a difference in the mid range and top end. but for low boost on streets, stockers with a good tune on the AVCS will give more response. BC are also very mildly lifted compared to most street manner cams. Think what they might have been trying to say is save your money because at the horsepower your at the gains are not going to be signifigant enough to notice. In personal experiences, i have some friends with built motors, and have been in similier setups to what you will be running. Cant tell a noticable difference in the stockers and aftermarkets cams.
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Old 07-06-2009, 11:43 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by jerry curl View Post
You should stay with the stock bumpers because I dont think the engine will be moving enough air to compensate even for a mild camshaft. When your at the track with more of an aggressive tune at around 450 WHP and more boost, im sure youll will notice a difference in the mid range and top end. but for low boost on streets, stockers with a good tune on the AVCS will give more response. BC are also very mildly lifted compared to most street manner cams. Think what they might have been trying to say is save your money because at the horsepower your at the gains are not going to be signifigant enough to notice. In personal experiences, i have some friends with built motors, and have been in similier setups to what you will be running. Cant tell a noticable difference in the stockers and aftermarkets cams.
Depends on the cams. BC aren't really good power-makers, but others are. Kelford and GSC both have significantly more lift than BC, and are proven to make good power even on 400whp setups.
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Old 07-06-2009, 03:59 PM   #29
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I know a guy that had forged pistons on his hybrid. Was running 430 hp daily and 500+ race gas. Over revved a few times and over boosted several times. Finally cracked the ring land on the Mahle 4032's which is the weaker of the pistons after 60K miles.
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Old 07-06-2009, 05:02 PM   #30
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Good responses guys. Wrxwhat, its awsome that you have been on a built motor for 40k, it sounds like you have a drive style relative to myself. I know it sounds crazy but I rev my motor to 7400 rpm occasionally as well. So I may get an upgraded pump. With the 07 gearing and the HTA68 I hold 4th while doing a 1/4 stretch, still making decent power out there believe it or not.
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Old 07-06-2009, 05:03 PM   #31
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I just got the axis stage 4 block im gunna run this on the td04 and stock injectors in my 02 wrx its gunna run out of power in the top but its gunna be a hell of alot faster than a the ej20 i had it should last me 100k
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Old 07-06-2009, 05:06 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by cobra killa View Post
I just got the axis stage 4 block im gunna run this on the td04 and stock injectors in my 02 wrx its gunna run out of power in the top but its gunna be a hell of alot faster than a the ej20 i had it should last me 100k
Why do you think it would be any faster? Same turbo, the higher redline won't get you anything on the td04, the extra displacement won't make a big difference, same compression, I'm assuming stock heads? It won't be any faster than your ej20 was.
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Old 07-06-2009, 05:42 PM   #33
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they arnt not stock heads
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Old 07-06-2009, 07:41 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobra killa View Post
I just got the axis stage 4 block im gunna run this on the td04 and stock injectors in my 02 wrx its gunna run out of power in the top but its gunna be a hell of alot faster than a the ej20 i had it should last me 100k

Thats like ordering a filet mingion and putting katchup on it. Have fun!

Run a TD04, have massive bottom end. However, after spending that much $ on a block and running stock inj is not smart. And even the TD04 doesn't make any sense at all.... You do realize you could run a VFxx, HTA68, 18g, or possibly even a 20g and still have the same spool that the TD04 will give or take 500 rpm.

Just....... Why?
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Old 07-06-2009, 08:15 PM   #35
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lol at 3 or 4k engine with $75 turbo on it.
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Old 07-06-2009, 08:23 PM   #36
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in for the win...saving my pennies for my next long block

and to the guy above krang...if you have the money throw on bigger injectors, hta68, and a hfs-6 and go to town! if not what u have is cool too...
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Old 07-06-2009, 08:25 PM   #37
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Yes, but twin 75 dollar turbo's would be a lot more interesting wouldnt it?

I cant recall if I saw anyone doing that yet.. twin 75 dollar turbo's on a STI...

anyways, back on point. Cams=more need for tune=sacrifice some daily drive ability. I'll do a full on port and polish way before I'd do cams. You'd probably net similiar gains, and probably increase efficiency at the same time. Not to mention decrease valve heat, etc etc.

All in all, there is no reason on a build not to do a port and polish. AT least do a gasket match porting...

Anyways, the point of the 1000hp capable motor running at 200hp is that people are trying to get some extended mileage out of it. I'll tell you this much.. it doesnt happen. For all the various reasons people have listed, a 1000hp motor isnt generally made for daily driving. Its not made to be started up cold. Heck, if you look at Ken blocks car closely, he has a block heater. They heat the car up before starting the engine. (and this is verified when I went to vermont sports car). They all have block heaters. While his isnt 1000 hp, there are obvious concerns of starting that car when cold. (and this happens even in the summer).

BTW, back to the mileage thing- a built block running for 100 miles a day is better than one who does short 10 mile trips.

Last edited by madmax718; 07-06-2009 at 08:29 PM. Reason: oops
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Old 07-06-2009, 08:26 PM   #38
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well, here here is what my new motor from axis got me. So an aftermarket motor can last for a very short time only 1200 miles on it. been leaking a quart of oil every 80 miles sins new

Compression:

Cyl#1@110psi
Cyl#2@105psi
Cyl#3@100psi
Cyl#4@100psi

Leakdown:

Cyl#1@42%
Cyl#2@42%
Cyl#3@18%
Cyl#4@42%
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Old 07-06-2009, 08:37 PM   #39
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How did you break it in? Depending on the rings you have in it, it may not be "there" yet... or you just may have been to easy on it during break-in

Quote:
Originally Posted by cbourbs View Post
well, here here is what my new motor from axis got me. So an aftermarket motor can last for a very short time only 1200 miles on it. been leaking a quart of oil every 80 miles sins new

Compression:

Cyl#1@110psi
Cyl#2@105psi
Cyl#3@100psi
Cyl#4@100psi

Leakdown:

Cyl#1@42%
Cyl#2@42%
Cyl#3@18%
Cyl#4@42%
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Old 07-06-2009, 08:48 PM   #40
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this is only my recommendation- (and probably not theirs)

Toss some straight 40 weight oil in there, and warm up the motor. When your at temps, find a nice long grade. Limit boost to some reasonable low number. Just enough to give the engine a good workout. Fill the car with a few heavy guys. Go give it a nice long pull. Then do it again. Then change the oil.

Then try your leakdown again. Sounds like the rings didnt seat. Some people are against driving the car hard in the beginning, but I like the old diesel motor way. Find the heaviest trailer you can, and load the !@#! up. It makes the rings seat better and faster.
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Old 07-06-2009, 09:25 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbourbs View Post
well, here here is what my new motor from axis got me. So an aftermarket motor can last for a very short time only 1200 miles on it. been leaking a quart of oil every 80 miles sins new

Compression:

Cyl#1@110psi
Cyl#2@105psi
Cyl#3@100psi
Cyl#4@100psi

Leakdown:

Cyl#1@42%
Cyl#2@42%
Cyl#3@18%
Cyl#4@42%
did u talk to them about this? if so what did they say?
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Old 07-06-2009, 09:52 PM   #42
STi Mikey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STiAlain View Post
did u talk to them about this? if so what did they say?
I second this. I think his thread should also encompass the experience with builders, whether good or bad.
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Old 07-06-2009, 10:26 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmax718 View Post
Then try your leakdown again. Sounds like the rings didnt seat. Some people are against driving the car hard in the beginning, but I like the old diesel motor way. Find the heaviest trailer you can, and load the !@#! up. It makes the rings seat better and faster.
I'm a big fan of a hard break in too...AFTER everything has been check out for leaks, cams broken in, initial oil changed...then get some heat into those rings
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Old 07-06-2009, 11:03 PM   #44
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I Believe you should always break a car in the way you plan on driving the car!!
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Old 07-06-2009, 11:14 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STi Mikey View Post
Good responses guys. Wrxwhat, its awsome that you have been on a built motor for 40k, it sounds like you have a drive style relative to myself. I know it sounds crazy but I rev my motor to 7400 rpm occasionally as well. So I may get an upgraded pump. With the 07 gearing and the HTA68 I hold 4th while doing a 1/4 stretch, still making decent power out there believe it or not.
Heh, wrxwhat DROVE HIS CAR from Orlando to Houston for the supra meet, did an HPDE, time attack event, street raced, and then DROVE BACK... that alone is pretty damn impressive.
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Old 07-06-2009, 11:18 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by jerry curl View Post
I Believe you should always break a car in the way you plan on driving the car!!
That's a common opinion but I have never seen anything to back it up...its much like a wive's tale.

I tell my customers to do slow break ins as it gives more time for things to happen and at a slower rate. If anything starts happening, it has a better chance of being caught.
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Old 07-07-2009, 07:11 AM   #47
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where can you get those block heaters?
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Old 07-07-2009, 10:29 AM   #48
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I've got over 20,000 miles on mine in the last year. Went through the tough Mass winter and everything. Fully closed deck & sleeved Cobb block.... hopefully she will last forever
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Old 07-07-2009, 11:11 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by STiAlain View Post
did u talk to them about this? if so what did they say?
yes i just got an email back from them and they won't do anything. They said there is not really any warranty on it at all unless they install it and break in the motor. what a load of horse ****. This is an axis block just to let everyone know. he said sorry about that , i have no idea why your having the problems.
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Old 07-07-2009, 11:23 AM   #50
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i had a cobb block in my car for ~30k miles and when we pulled it 3 weeks ago it still had 135psi in all the holes and leaked 8,8,8,11. the only reason for replacement was it was noisy and consumed some oil, and it had to come out anyway to do headgaskets. it still ran high 12's on an ots stage 2 map.
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