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Old 10-28-2015, 06:58 PM   #51
psppopeye
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This info is amazingly detailed. Along with the pics provided, a beginner such as myself can use this material to not only build his/her work kit but can refer back to its many many teaching points & how to's. Thanks for this. Oh and NASA level solderer..... impressive!
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Old 12-03-2015, 01:23 PM   #52
mccohens
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Excellent piece and lots of useful information. Not to start an argument but my training was to avoid soldering twisted wires because they cannot flex with then. The whole purpose of twisted strands instead of solid wire is that they bend without any stress.
Another rule I learned was never to trust an electrical connection for mechanical strength.
Putting tubing over the joint helps a lot. Two layers of shrink over solder joints is even better, and clamping the wire also helps.
However my favorite system for stranded wire is a high grade(expensive) in line splice and my crimp tool with interchangeable dies. And a piece of shrink tube over the top.
But if and when I do solder, I do it as you describe.
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Old 10-11-2016, 03:50 PM   #53
further41
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I have been slowly getting better at soldering over the years, but holy cow at all the information in this thread I have never read before even after many hours searching the interwebz. Bravo.
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Old 10-30-2019, 07:35 AM   #54
jhkoka
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Great write-up! Learned lots of new techniques on soldering!
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Old 12-03-2020, 10:12 PM   #55
Apex2000Rs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fenderman07 View Post
You are supposed to use only enough to saturate/coat the stranded wire for tinning. Anything that is clumpy is too much solder, and if it starts to drip off the wire. When soldering multiple wires, again avoid making it too clumpy. Bottom line is be conservative, it's easier to add more than to undo it.

It is easiest to confirm a good solder connection when you can observe each part, from clean, un-soldered copper nearest the insulation, all the way to a finished solder job where the individual wires can be seen.
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