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11-03-2020, 04:44 PM | #1 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 491030
Join Date: Sep 2018
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Was told my center diff snap ring broke from overheating.
My trans was being weird and clunky, with a lot of shavings in the fluid. I took my car to RalliSpec for a refresh and they told me the center diff must have overheated and the snap ring broke. I'm guessing that is caused by uneven wear off the tires? I only had one time a tire for messed up very soon after buying a set, and I drove maybe .5 miles with the spare. I was worried about messing it up, so I stopped every couple blocks for a few minutes. But that was maybe 12/18 right after I bought the car.
I'm working on lifting the car a bit, so I bought taller tires on smaller wheels. About 6 months later is when the weirdness started. Those wheels/tires are actually lighter than my stock setup, so I don't think it's those though. In early 2019 I had an axle snap and drove on it for a day since my mechanic though it may have been a synchro being broken with the way I described it over the phone. I had to drive about 50 miles home and was another ~30 the next day until I could get it to him. It would catch and work fine once I got rolling, but was skipping a bit on starts. What usually causes a diff to overheat? How can I avoid it in the future? Any other ideas? Just general wear after 126k miles? Fluid got too low?
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11-04-2020, 08:48 AM | #2 |
Big Ron
Super Moderator Member#: 18062
Join Date: Apr 2002
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: I can save you a ton of cash
Vehicle:on car parts so PM me b4 j00 buy |
Your center diff explodes due to age, bad luck or running uneven tire diameters. Spin the wheel and take your pick. There is no fluid too low as that unit is sealed.
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11-05-2020, 11:39 AM | #3 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 30804
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Vehicle:87 Yugo Red |
I have seen this happen a few times now. in summary it sucks. I know that's not really helpful, but I understand your pain.
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11-05-2020, 01:03 PM | #4 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: apparently I "spread the hate"
Vehicle:2006 WRX, 6MT, 5x114 |
If the snapped axle you drove on was a rear axle; I would expect that is the majority of your root cause. That slipping clutch feel until it starts rolling as you described. This places a lot of strain (overheat) on the center viscous coupling. Followed up with age, use, and it likely being the older cir-clip Cdiff. Likely not low gear oil level since the Cdiff is a sealed unit filled with it's own viscous fluid.
You are going to need a new Cdiff of course. Likely the Cdiff cir-clip was ingested by the transfer gears so you may need a new transfer gear set, bearings, etc. You should put this in your profile or at least include in your OP so we know what vintage car/parts you are dealing with. |
11-05-2020, 01:45 PM | #5 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 175624
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Wichita, KS
Vehicle:0304 WRX WRX SY WRB |
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11-05-2020, 08:04 PM | #6 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 491030
Join Date: Sep 2018
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Didn't realize I didn't do that. Yea. I figured it was a culmination of this being my first stick car (I drive motorcycles a lot, so the learning curve wasn't terrible), that axle breaking, and maybe a clutch that's a little too heavy. RalliSpec didn't have a new one, so he threw a good used one in.
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11-05-2020, 08:29 PM | #7 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: apparently I "spread the hate"
Vehicle:2006 WRX, 6MT, 5x114 |
FYI the newest Subaru part number Cdiff has a c-clip instead of the older cir-clip. The c-clip is more robust and it would be attached to a new Cdiff.
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11-05-2020, 09:37 PM | #8 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 491030
Join Date: Sep 2018
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Quote:
Second problem is a weird idle. IT sits at regular idle, then goes up a couple hundred rpm and goes lower than normal, then back to normal. It'll do it a couple times at each red light. Then tonight I was reversing out of a parking spot. I went from reverse to 1st and realize the car had stalled out (I had neutral in so there was no jump). I'm guessing maybe I developed a vacuum leak somewhere? Third is my P/S axle. He mentioned something about it clicking, and I thought he meant the light whine/tick it made on super tight turns. But I ent to park later that night and it's extremely jumpy at tight turns. Definitely not how it was before I dropped it off. |
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11-06-2020, 12:11 PM | #9 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: apparently I "spread the hate"
Vehicle:2006 WRX, 6MT, 5x114 |
The popping out of gear into N is likely a gear stack assembly issue. I WOULD NOT DRIVE THIS ANYMORE UNTIL you let Rallispec know about this. I am sure they will take care of that.
The Neutral Position Switch (NPS) harness plug might not be connected well or possibly it has an electrical issue. [or if there was ALOT of gear stck slop...maybe but unlikely..just thinking] This could also be a potential cause of your idle issue. I would not expect a strait trans R&R to affect vacuum lines but still worth checking out. I doubt the PDM Snout Kit has anything to do with this issue. Axle shaft P/S passenger side front or rear? I am guessing front since rears would not have been touched during a trans R&R. Make sure both ends are seated into place correctly, looks for leaking/torn boots, etc. If Rallispec re-works the trans have them look at the axle CV joints during that job. Good luck |
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