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07-27-2009, 11:02 AM | #1 |
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Vehicle:04 GT3076 2.1 Stroker = Broken 3rd |
My 2.1 Stroker Build EJ205
I've have done a ej257 hybrid. Did a compression check last night and ended up with a weak cylinder, 160, 90, 160, 180 (1,2,3,4). I don't know how I lost it, probably cracked ringland. It lasted 3 years.
I will either be running a 20g or a FP HTA Green. Here is what I am thinking. I am still doing research but this is what I'm thinking so far. The information here is after doing 3 hours of searching on nasioc. If any of this information is incorrect please help me fix it. HP goal: Anywhere between 350-400 whp. I purchased the Alamo Stroker kit, talked with Brice, he pieced the kit together definitely sounded like he was very knowledgeable with the set up. Asked me to call if I have any issues. They even called me after my orher to verify everything I need is shipped at the same time. Very good experience with them. The kits includes: Ej257 crank (new) Eagle rods with arp bolts Custom Wiseco Pistons. -8.5 Compression -130.5 mm rod length -79mm stroke Part I have: 2004 ej205 block (my old one with spun rod bearing) BC 272 Cams BC Valve Springs and Retainers pulleys and belt tensioner (less than 5k on the new tensioner) New Misc Hardware: ARP head studs ej205 Gasket kit New Bearings: ACL bearings New Pistons: Custom Pistons: CP, Wiseco, etc Wiesco Pistons K579M925B will not work with sti rod (130.5mm length) and sti crank (79mm stroke), rod length for the expected rod length for this piston is 131.5 mm I am using WISECO pistons from the ALAMO Stroker kit. Outsourced Work: 0.02" overbore (matched to pistons) Block Halve Resurfaced (If needed) Head Resurface (If needed) Piston Skirt Coating UPDATE 1a: EJ257 Crank, Rods, Pistons, and ACL Bearings Received. Post 16 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...9&postcount=16 UPDATE 1b: ARP Head studs came in. Post 30 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...3&postcount=30 UPDATE 2: 8/4/2009 dropped off parts at aes racing, in elk grove, il crank balance block wash rings gap file ring overbore and hone UPDATE 3: 10/13/2009 1) I assembled the short block about a month ago. 2) Took the engine out and dissembled it. found #2 ringland was broken. 3) Picked up a set of mildly ported wrx heads. It uses flat valves. judging from the previous owner his compression ratio went from 8.7 to 8.9. If things are linear i should have a compression ratio of 8.8. 4) I still havent found a turbo to go along with my build. I will run the 18g until after the holiday season and then switch to an DOM 3. Spool should be around 4.5K making decent power on pump gas. 5) I plan to get the long block assembled this weekend. The weekend after that i'll get all the accessories on it and drop it back into the car. UPDATE 3: 4/25/2011 I've been getting questions as to what is my current setup so here it is. Compression ratio: ~8.58 http://www.race-cars.net/calculators...alculator.html Cylinder Bore: 92.5mm Stroke Length: 79mm Cylinders: 4 Chamber: 48cc Piston Dome: -13cc Gasket Thickness: 1.37mm (0.54") not 100% sure about this one. I'm running stock subaru ej20 head gasket. Engine: Wiseco custom piston (look at post #16 for spec sheet) Eagle H-Beam Rods Stock Sti Crankshaft > 79mm ACL Crank and Rod bearings. Heads: Brian Crower Strings and Retainers Stocksize Brian Crower Valves Mild port done by me. 3 angle intake cut 5 angle exhaust cut Sti Cams Turbo and Exhaust: Garrett GT3076r with .63 a/r hotside. Perrin rotated kit uppipe and downpipe with 44mm Tial Wastegate. Greddy Evo 1 catback, (difference between Evo2? it has two resonators and is aluminized instead of stainless steel) Intake and Intercoolor: KSTech 73mm rotated intake with recirc nipple. Hyperflow TMIC (1st or 2nd Gen Turbo XS) TGV Deletes done by me. Synapse Synchronic BPV ( equals no more compressor stall/surge when letting off throttle.) Fueling: Walbro 255 fuel pump. Five0 1200cc injectors, topfeed, part#026WRX1200. (installed as of 4/22/2011) Perrin Fuel Rails
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Last edited by NITROS; 08-01-2011 at 02:04 PM. |
07-27-2009, 12:15 PM | #2 |
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What block will you use? You can't yuse those pistons in your EJ257 block, you need an EJ20x block.
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07-27-2009, 12:48 PM | #3 |
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07-27-2009, 01:23 PM | #4 |
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well you could do a 2.1L or a 2.34L at this point, tough call. Either one is going to be fun.
Those pistons also state being made for use with a 131.5mm rod; thsu you'll have an extra 0.040" of quench height and a low compression ratio...food for thought and things to fix. -Micah |
07-27-2009, 01:44 PM | #5 | |
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07-27-2009, 02:25 PM | #6 |
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^I think the guy you're looking for posted right above you.
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07-27-2009, 03:03 PM | #7 |
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07-27-2009, 05:18 PM | #8 | |
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-soobaviator |
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07-27-2009, 06:26 PM | #9 |
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I called BC and asked if they sell just the pistons. They didnt have any 92.5 in stock but they told me they can have CP custom make them for me about 2-3 weeks. $650 (pistons, rings, pins, retainers) + shipping + any extras
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07-27-2009, 11:06 PM | #10 |
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wisec...#ht_2352wt_669
92.5mm bore Wiseco Pistons - 130.5mm Rod Length Why won't these Wiseco Pistons work?... If Wiseco makes pistons that fit the WRX rods and WRX rods are dimensionally identical to STI rods... Transitive property much? The older (pre-98) stuff was of a different rod length...? |
07-28-2009, 12:03 AM | #11 | |
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1) standard ej20 not a stroker. BAD 2) 92mm not 92.5mm BAD 3) made for a 75mm stroke not 79mm. BAD 4) You're correct its for a 130.5mm length rod. GOOD The part number I am refering to is K579M925B its all correct except for the the rod length which is 131.5mm http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...ns_subaru.html http://www.flatlander-ipp.co.uk/wise...o-subaru.shtml and to be honest i don't think wiseco offers it off the shelf anymore http://wiseco.com/Catalogs/SportComp...baruToyota.pdf Last edited by NITROS; 07-28-2009 at 12:09 AM. |
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07-28-2009, 04:08 AM | #12 |
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Ah, right. Forgot this was a stroker build...whoops.
so 5.137" = 130.5mm, yet K579M925B says 5.137" = 131.5mm... uhh, someone sucks at converting from English to SI... So is 5.137" the actual spec or is it 131.5mm? |
07-28-2009, 08:58 AM | #13 |
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The wiseco actuall calls his previously mentioned piston out for a 5.177" rod.
130.5mm = 5.137" (most everything) 131.25mm = 5.167" (phase 1 EJ25) 131.6mm = 5.181" (phase 2 NA EJ25) I have no clue where the grapped the 131.5mm or 5.177" rod length from but it's what they call out. PM'ed you back. |
07-28-2009, 10:20 AM | #14 | |
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Quote:
I did see a stroker kit on Ebay with Wiseco pistons and I contacted the guy and he said that they are custom Wiseco slugs with an 8.5:1 CR and use 5.137 Eagle rods... The kit is a good price, although I've priced out my stroker build using Cosworth bearings for about $200 less including shipping and tax. Check it out, seems like a decent fellow to deal with. Alamo 2.1l Stroker Wiseco Pistons Subaru EJ20 WRX STi I've decided to stop researching and go with the Mahle Power Pak 92.5mm OTS stroker pistons for my build. They are made for the application and I like German stuff, especially my Shamwow. I'm not trying to make a faffillion WHP so the Mahle's should do me good for the 300-350 WHP and 50,000 miles of use I am looking for. -soobaviator |
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07-28-2009, 02:14 PM | #15 |
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Vehicle:04 GT3076 2.1 Stroker = Broken 3rd |
I had just called them as well. He told me it was a custom piston as well. I will give them a call a little later to get the details on it.
Wiesco Custom Piston CR: 8.5 Rod Len: Standard Stroke 79mm Coatings: None, no Skirt ($25-26 option per piston) Last edited by NITROS; 07-28-2009 at 03:55 PM. |
08-02-2009, 10:27 PM | #16 |
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08-02-2009, 10:52 PM | #17 |
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Even though you never have anything nice to say about any of my stuff, very nice build plan. Hope it all goes well.
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08-02-2009, 11:04 PM | #18 |
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What No head studs?..... WTF?
^^ Awwww dat's so nice of you IbhatingWalterifhefinisheshistrokerbeforeme! |
08-02-2009, 11:10 PM | #19 |
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Like this
Oh yea mines a closed deck 2.35 FTW! Ibthreadjackinyo! Last edited by sense of nature; 08-02-2009 at 11:17 PM. |
08-03-2009, 12:07 AM | #20 |
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damn Walter at the pace your going you might be done with your build before I'm done with mine!! I have all the damn parts, but I still cant get the freaking cam bolts off the sprockets!! even after buying the stupid ass AVCS tool, Robert and I have still managed to round all the cam bolts! The only thing holding me back is getting my CP's out of my old block (25K) and re-using them in my new build. everything is ready to go to the machine shop as soon as those heads are off!!
Are you having AES balance your rotating assembly? I'm just wondering if its absolutely nesassary. I'm having them wash,re-hone to piston spec,balance, and gap the rings. Just wondered your thoughts or anyone else's on balancing. IbsorryforjackingYOREthreadloveyoulongtime ! |
08-03-2009, 12:39 AM | #21 |
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Should've loosened them with the engine in the car so you could've put the transmission into top gear and simply used a large breaker bar on the bolts... Put the timing belt back on, and thread a couple of the flywheel bolts back on. Then put a screwdriver, wrench or something in a way that it fits between those bolts and hits the engine stand so as you try and crank the bolts off, the crank won't turn... Of course, if you're already stripped the bolt heads, then you're screwed. Some cams also have a place to put a large wrench onto... Pop the valve covers off and check.
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08-03-2009, 12:52 AM | #22 | |
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08-03-2009, 01:16 AM | #23 |
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cam bolts
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1301065
This thread shows how to get the cambolts off. It has lots of pictures. You can either drill, grind or use a stripped bolt set on the cam bolt. I have had to do this more than a few times. Hope this helps. |
08-03-2009, 01:45 AM | #24 | ||
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I still need to send the pistons to swaintech for coating. I don't know which type I want to get yet. |
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08-03-2009, 02:41 PM | #25 |
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Subscribed for eventual and unavoidable trans breakage.
And to steal ideas for a possible built 2L of my own. |
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