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04-17-2020, 01:29 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2020
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EJ257 Timing belt mishap(s) sanity check?
Definitely not the first thread of its kind but I had a few questions. Recently purchased a 2013 STi Hatchback Automatic (GRF) here in Japan. So it is an EJ257 with dual avcs. It has about 124k KMs on it so I decided to do the timing belt change. A few things have happened during the change that have me slightly concerned and could use some help/sanity checking.
1. The crank bolt was severely stuck on where it was bending the 4 point universal crank lock I have. Having an automatic I can't just put it in gear so I hooked up a breaker bar, rested on the frame. Unplugged all the spark plugs and pushed the ignition where it tried turning over for 1-2 seconds. This broke it free and I was able to proceed without any issues. This shouldn't cause any issues, correct? 2. When removing the timing belt all of the marks were correct. My cam lock fell out when the belt was removed and both left side cam spun quickly about 1/4 to 1/2 a turn to the point they were not under spring load. The crank mark was pointed correctly the whole time. Also shouldn't cause any issues, right? 3. After replacing all of the pulleys, water pump, etc. I was putting the belt back on and notice the crank and cams were out of alignment. So with the crank only showing one tooth off from the mark I rotated the cams(clockwise for intake and counter for exhaust) until they had all the marks pointing in the right direction and locked them in place. I then manually rotated the crank 350ish degrees to put it back into the correct position. There was some slight resistance but nothing too hard to indicate any contact with anything. My question is, would rotating the crank with the cams all in their "timing" positions cause any issues? I only realized after doing it that I should have left the cams in the "unsprung" position before rotation? Basically when the cams are all in time, what is the position of the valves? 4. After putting the belt back on I was hand tightening the dust cover for the exhaust cam and one of the damn cam cap bolts broke off into the pulley. Unable to extract it without messing up the cam I am currently looking to order a new pulley to replace it with. Currently the car is in my driveway with the new belt on until I can get a pulley ordered. But if there is a chance I bent a valve from one of the previous steps I would like to check it out before getting everything reassembled. Sorry for the long post on a subject that has been discussed many times but most of the other threads were either for SOHC, non-avcs, or single avcs information.
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04-17-2020, 06:58 AM | #2 |
Scooby Guru
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Vehicle:2005 WRX STi WRB |
The starter to free crank bolt is ok. After reading the rest I'm gonna say do a Compression test. Good luck.
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04-18-2020, 11:04 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Apr 2020
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If you're cam marks are in time, cylinder 1 and 3 valves should be closed and your piston 1 and 3 should be at the top, the other two cylinders and valves would be at the bottom and be opened. So if you spun your crank it could hit the valves. But if you were mindful about rotating the crank and not felt some resistance you should be fine..
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04-19-2020, 09:50 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Vehicle:2009 wrx |
can you use a small pick to spin out what is left of that little bolt? it is possible that it is loose.
as far as valves go, yeah maybe you could do a leakdown test. no cranking required. if the numbers look ok, then finish up the install as is |
04-22-2020, 11:23 PM | #5 |
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Hmmmmmm
Responding bc I just finished my freakin 4th T-belt change in last 7 weeks (Multiple cam seal leaks bc of scored cam to cam seal surfaces) After new cams installed, AND no oil leaks so far I might be done Anyway 1-think your good with crank bolt removal Easier: put car in 5th or 6th gear. Then torque/loosen I was golden for all 4times 2-no issues with that horrible spinning Just as long as belt not on when free spin occurred I heard that sound multiple times during 1st two installments (One person, without cam lock tool) 2nd & 3rd time with Chinese lock tool for $20 Didn't hold perfectly, L cams spun again Just as long as marks line up(all 7) your good if L side spins.....un-connected 3-your good here too My 1st time Took me 7 time to get right Make all marks match String belt along Make all marks match Pull tensioner pin Turn engine by crank bolt Make sure all marks match Then torque everything Try to prove this do some searches on timing belt failures At hwy speed, belt breaks....your screwed At hwy speed, belt skips 1-4 teeth bc of failed tensioner but belt still intact Very good chance you will be good 4-I'm a lil confused here You were tightening a shield bolt but the cam sprocket (10mm hex) broke in cam??? Lmk which bolt sheered Hope helps GL |
04-23-2020, 01:42 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Apr 2020
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thanks for all of the replies, I really appreciate the time to respond to my worries!
tangsta88 - Thanks for the information, it was exactly what I was looking for in regards to valve locations corresponding to the timing marks. Don't have an air compressor so couldn't perform a leakdown test, I just kind of put it all back together and hoped for the best. Fortunately everything worked out and I didn't permanently mess anything up except the pulley the bolt got stuck in. Unfortunately I couldn't extract the bolt without damaging the threads on the pulley so I just ordered a new cam pulley which was about $140. The bolt I am referring to is the oil/dust cover for the AVCS-type cams. Its a small 8mm bolt and only like 2.5 ft lb of torque. |
04-23-2020, 03:26 AM | #7 |
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i thought all the JDM STI had the EJ207 inside...weird...
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04-23-2020, 03:58 AM | #8 |
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07-07-2020, 03:03 PM | #9 | |
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movement prior to aligning
Quote:
I am new to the forum but apparently I can not start a new thread with out replying to an existing thread 3 times, I so thought I would try this. I was being a knucklehead and tried to use the timing belt to hold the crank while unbolting it... I broke the belt, and the crank was not in TDC when it broke, so now I am trying to make sure that cams are in the right position before putting the belt on. How will I know if I am in TDC and not 180 degrees out? is it apparent what the valve positions are in if I turn them? I dont want to make it worse by moving the shafts around. any suggestions? thanks |
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07-08-2020, 09:01 AM | #10 | |
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Vehicle:2014 WRX Hatch WRB |
Quote:
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07-08-2020, 09:10 AM | #11 |
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Vehicle:2013 WRX Hatch |
Crank rotates twice for every rotation of the cams so if you get the marks lined up you won't be 180 out on the crank. When you put the crank sprocket at the timing service mark it's 90 past TDC so the pistons are in the middle of their stroke and won't make contact with the valves. Just be careful when you're rotating the crank, if you feel a hard stop like a mechanical resistance do not force it. Driver's side cams (or left, or cylinder 2 and 4) will be under tension when you've got the timing lined up correctly.
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