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Brakes & Suspension Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack |
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01-06-2016, 03:23 PM | #1 |
Scooby Specialist
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GDA/GDB Rear Subframe-to-body solid bushings
I've been searching for solid replacement bushings for the rear subframe (02-07 GD chassis). I am not referring to the differential carrier "outrigger" bushings but the ones shown in the photo. I cannot find anyone that offers anything except a "lockdown bolt". Can someone point me in the right direction?
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01-06-2016, 06:37 PM | #2 |
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Vehicle:2006 WRX, 6MT, 5x114 |
GDA/GDB Rear Subframe-to-body solid bushings
I recall those solid (hardened - my bad) bushings being in the bushing kit listed in the SPT catalog. Pretty sure they were eventually omitted from that kit and were not offered separately by SOA. Maybe those can be had by importing though. Is there a particular reason you want these over using lock bolts. They effectively perform the same function and the bolts are easier to install (ex rusty cruddy threads).
Alternatively some years of USDM STIs got cross members with solid mounts. Or there is always aftermarket cross members. *Your OP photo, I am pretty certain is of the solid mount rear cross member. Those are not pressed in bushings of any type or durometer. Last edited by JarHarms; 01-08-2016 at 09:18 PM. |
01-06-2016, 07:24 PM | #3 |
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Solid mounts were only available on the crossmember that came on (some of) the STi models. The GpN mounts were hard rubber, and have been discontinued. You can still get them from some of the larger rally shops (TMR, etc.) that keep bigger inventories of spares.
Unfortunately, I haven't been able to identify the actual Subaru p/n of the rear crossmember that included the metal bushings. I honestly don't know if you could ever buy a replacement that even had the metal bushings installed... I can tell you that 20150FE430 was the last GD-series part no. for rear crossmember, and is likely the most upgraded. It was used on 2006-2007 STIs. It was also the spec. spare part for Prodrive Group N cars. Others include: 20150FE300 20150FE400 20150FE210 If I had to wager a guess, I'd say 430 is the late-model solid bushing part (STI), and 210 is the late-model rubber bushing part (WRX). EDIT: If you buy one (or more) - post what you get! The following thread is a great resource for the front crossmembers, and we could use info about the rears, as well. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2728390 |
01-07-2016, 05:36 AM | #4 |
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I have the STi rear crossmember with solid steel bushings installed on my Forester. I imported it from Yahoo Auctions in Japan IIRC when i did my STi conversion. I cant recal specific models as i got all my conversion pieces piece-meal one at a time.
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01-07-2016, 07:23 AM | #5 |
Scooby Guru
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Tri-State
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This is interesting. I have an 06 WRX wagon and I have the oem rubber bushings in my rear crossmember. I browsed parts.subaru.com to see if the bushings could be ordered separately but they can't, at least not for the oem parts. And based on my search, my subframe's part number is also 430. Therefore, the 430 is not the subframe with solid mount bushings.
Further, a little more digging, it seems the 04 and 05 STI was part number 400 and the 06-07 STI is part number 430. I don't recall from other threads I read previously about this topic but maybe 400 is the one with solid mount bushings? Could 04-05 STI owners verify this? I believe I have the Group N bushings on my wish list. Last I checked (3 months ago), Rallispec still had them on their website. |
01-07-2016, 10:05 AM | #6 | |
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Quote:
The lockdown bolts are probably OK to stiffen the subframe when the bushings are new and tight, but since those bolts are in the center (front-to-back) of the subframe, I worry that the subframe would "rock" front-to-back during accel/decel. I have no proof of this, just a hunch. As for aftermarket subframes, while I'm spending a GRIP of money on this project, a $1800 MSI subframe is not in my budget, and I'm not a fan of the design/build quality of the TSS unit. I bought one a while back and promptly got rid of it when I was told I would need to "modify" my fuel tank with a hammer to make it fit. I have found numerous solid bushing kits for other cars online. Since I can't find GD Subaru kit, what I may end up doing is removing the tired OE bushings from my subframe, measuring the diameter and other critical dimensions, and comparing those to what's out there. There may be a bushing set made for some other vehicle that works. If I find success there, I will share the info in this thread. It does seem odd though that solid bushings are available for the "outrigger" and the diff cradle, but not for the main subframe. Thanks for the info so far. J |
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01-07-2016, 12:05 PM | #7 | ||
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Quote:
Rallispec may still list them, but they probably can't get them. I've had this happen with a number of older STi parts. They usually update the site anytime I've requested discontinued parts. You're welcome to check, though! Quote:
I've installed both, and the outrigger and rear diff bushings (bar) make a considerably larger difference than the crossmember bushings. Also, the STi GpN bushings for the crossmember were likely unpopular due to them being a 'downgrade' once the metal bushed part was released. Aftermarket companies also would have a limited market as they'd only be selling to people that didn't have the metal inserts. Your best bet is to have a machine shop measure the bore and make some out of aluminum or steel. You'll probably want them to be snug, but not necessarily a press fit that requires a torch. Last edited by mrsaturn7085; 01-07-2016 at 12:13 PM. |
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01-08-2016, 09:27 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
Maybe it was a certain batch of production cars? example like mid-05 MY to the end of 2006. Who knows at this point. Consider yourself lucky if you have them! |
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01-08-2016, 10:17 AM | #9 |
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My 2005 STi has the metal bushings. I know the 2007 Usdm STI cars got the rubber ones. I am surprised to hear Mr Saturn's 2006 came with the metal bushings as they were trying to soften the car up with their 'upscale approach' (anyone remember the short lived liquid filled plastic motor mounts?).
The USDM STi originally came over with a bunch of spec c components, which were replaced in the last year or two of GD production. |
01-08-2016, 11:18 AM | #10 |
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So instead of by part number, it was probably done during production in the mid years of the GD chassis.
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01-08-2016, 11:46 AM | #11 | |
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Quote:
It is possible my rear crossmember was replaced prior to me owning the car (and replaced again by me, due to existing damage when I took possession). I will eventually be buying a new 430 p/n rear crossmember to press new bushings into, but it'll probably be a while before I can make any confirmations on what it shows up with. |
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01-08-2016, 09:11 PM | #12 |
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: apparently I "spread the hate"
Vehicle:2006 WRX, 6MT, 5x114 |
The solid STI rear cross member being discussed is not really "any-bushing". It's more or less four welded in solid mounts. As far as I can tell:
20150FE300 ('02-'04 STI) this p/n is no longer and superceded to *400 20150FE400 ('04-'05 STI) 20150FE210 ('05-'05 STI) this p/n is no longer and superceded to *430 20150FE430 ('06-'07 STI) I sourced my solid mount rear cross member from a '05 STI. However I was selecting based on photos and less so on the MY it came from. So I am not certain the change to pressed bushings occurred mid-'05 or mid-'06 (I lean towards mid-'05). I don't consider the MY breaks very reliable. I am 99% certain that the *430 is a pressed bushing type since it was also used on the '05-'07 WRX and my '06 WRX originally had a pressed bushing rear cross member. The *210 was also used on '05 WRX so I bet it was press bushing as well. It's probably a question of if *400 is a solid or pressed bushing type. Either way it's not that critical to change to this solid version or the PITA swearing match to swap to the hardened bushings. Install lock bolts and spend the effort in areas that net more bag for your buck. |
01-09-2016, 05:28 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
You may be 100% correct. When I get a minute to work on the car I'm going to test the subframe's movement using a big cheater bar and a dial micrometer. I'll take a video and post it. |
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01-10-2016, 03:05 PM | #14 |
Scooby Specialist
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Plan on buying a new crossmember afterwards. The sheet metal will probably bend long before you're able to move it out of a single plane. A bent crossmember will give your alignment shop a really fun time trying to hit target angles.
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01-11-2016, 09:22 AM | #15 |
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I would assume that you're talking about the bushings that are listed as part # RST-2049 that are discontinued
http://www.rallispec.com/mou_bush_rstbk1.html I bought a set of 4 from the classifieds here about 10-ish yrs ago and never did anything with them. I wish I could help you more with the subaru part #, but as you can see from the pic below, the bag they come in doesn't have a part # sticker. 3 of 4 that I have are still in the original bag and none of them have part #'s on them. |
01-11-2016, 11:27 AM | #16 |
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That is not the GpN bushing for the GD cars. That appears to be a replacement part (aftermarket, or one-off) for the OEM metal bushing. It could also possibly be Rallispec p/n RST-2022, which was the rear crossmember bushing for the GC - the Subaru p/n was 20166FE100.
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01-11-2016, 03:00 PM | #17 |
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I see what you're saying. Has anyone ever had the GroupN bushings? I'm starting to think those metal ones are (or were) the Group N ones. Even the picture in that link displays them.
Can anyone attest to ever ordered and installe GroupN bushings for the rear crossmember? |
01-11-2016, 03:08 PM | #18 |
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You would assume incorrectly - I have a set of GD GpN bushings, they are hard rubber with a dual metal sleeve design. The stock photo you are referring to shows the GC metal bushings.
GC GpN bushings = metal GD GpN bushings = rubber/metal (discontinued) |
01-11-2016, 03:09 PM | #19 |
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If that's the case, can you do some measurements of your set? And maybe shadyrex can help as well. If they match in size, then we found our option.
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03-22-2017, 03:49 PM | #20 | |
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Quote:
I'm thinking about making solid metal ones on turning lathe but can not find any dimensions |
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07-29-2021, 02:38 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
Check out ESM Racing Master Bearing Kit, it has solid metal subframe, bushings, solid metal diff bushings and spherical bearings for the control arms, it is a little pricey but well worth it because the bushings will last forever because they're made of metal Here's the link: https://www.fastwrx.com/products/esm-racing-master-bearing-kit-2002-2007-wrx-sti |
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07-29-2021, 02:39 PM | #22 | |
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Quote:
Here's the link: https://www.fastwrx.com/products/esm-racing-master-bearing-kit-2002-2007-wrx-sti |
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07-29-2021, 03:22 PM | #23 |
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That's a pretty steep price for that set but it does seem to provide what this thread is talking about. The rest of the lot, the spherical stuff, isn't sealed so they won't last long for a daily driver. Maybe someone willing to split the lot with you.
I may have one of the last few sets of the oem solid replacement bushings. I sold a set last year or two years ago and decided to keep this one for R&D. It was not cheap to get a batch made outside of China. Unless folks are willing to pay about $150 for them, it didn't seem it was worth the investment to get them made. Anyone interested in this oem set, let me know. But it won't be cheap. |
09-25-2022, 04:29 PM | #24 |
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Polish company makes cross member bushing replacements, Stongflex.
Cross member bushings have flanges on top and bottom, at least in my 2006WRX, with the flanges originally on a continuous metal sleeve surrounding the bushing, and the flanges on top and bottom, which makes it a real pain to remove the old bushings, especially with the shape of the cross member giving no good bearing surface for the press to press against. The flanges on both surfaces make it like a rivet, with nothing surrounding it to push against. Strongflex uses a three-part replacement, with a polyurethane double flanged outer component, and two metal components, a top and bottom. The double flanged polyurethane was a challenge to put in on three of the four, and snapped in nicely on only one of the four--don't know what did different. Strongflex says to start the polyurethane with the one side of the flange in, at an angle, rather than flat like a usual bushing, and then push in. Was not possible for me by hand. With the 20 ton press, 3 or the 4 looked so deformed that it looked as though the polyethylene would break before seating, but it went in each time, without breaking. Strongflex has two densities of poly, the red colored poly has roughly same density to reproduce OEM feel, and the yellow colored poly is denser, for stiffer bushings than stock. I had the stiffer yellow "sports" bushings. |
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