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Old 07-07-2017, 05:51 PM   #76
BlueSTI4Me
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator View Post
Greetings from the Rose Cup paddock setup. the competition is a little higher grade than my normal races:



I wish my paddock stall looked like this!

Should be fun racing, especially if I can beat just one of them.
Happy hunting and good luck and be safe but have fun. Two day event?
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Old 07-09-2017, 11:01 AM   #77
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Oh man, wish I could be there. Was planning on bringing my boys down to watch the races but of course, the whole fam has come down with a death cold (myself included). Good luck Gator, I hope the car drives well and stays in one piece! Good luck!
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Old 07-09-2017, 03:50 PM   #78
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The short update: Smoke, Oil Mist, No Compression.

The details:
A couple of stats: Out of 174 entries there were two with 4 doors, mine and a Mazda 6 (in T4 class).

In the feature Rose Cup race there were 4 cars with 4 cyl engines, two of them were Subaru powered, mine and a friend's 818R. By the end of the second race there was 1.

A couple of paddock shots: the Corvettes in Vintage:


The Ferrari Challenge Cars, a couple of them were in my race group:



My friend's 818R:



In Grid for Friday Qualifying:



Saturday during Pre-Race check I found the top burp tank was empty. In fact the entire cooling system was basically empty! It took me awhile to figure out the problem, the tank filler neck was cracking off. In the pic you can see slight scratches on the Mishimoto cap, I suspect the hood was occasionally flexing over hard bumps and hitting the top of the cap, which sticks up a bit more then an oem cap:





My Crew chief ( the best track wife ever) shot down to Oregon City Subaru to buy the new upgraded STI tank. She got back with the new burp tank just in time to get it on, cycle the engine a few times to burp the air, and make it to the first race.

The new tank is entirely plastic, and on this tank Subaru specs the Non-Eared cap which I thought was weird but maybe because the hoses are connected slightly differently maybe that's the reason so I went with it:



I started and stopped the engine several times cycling and refilling the burp tank, but in the rush I may not have done it well enough.

The first couple of laps went great, I was watching the oil and coolant temps and they never went over 216. Then suddenly I was blowing a smoke screen like a WWII destroyer every time I hit the gas and the turbo spooled up. Then the smoke was recirculating into the cabin.

I pulled into the pits thinking I might be on fire, but thankfully no.

The engine was still running so I shut it down and the safety crew confirmed no fire. Towed back to my paddock and tried to diagnose what the heck happened.

NO CEL. I pulled the codes on my Cobb Accessport, No Codes. That's weird, every time I blow an engine it throws a bunch of codes. Also when it turns over they usually sound like a load of rocks crunching around, this time it sounds fine as far as crunching sounds. Engine won't start and seems to have no compression. I start pulling intercooler pipes off and discover the main block port which in an oem car is for the PCV and in my dry sump has a cap; the cap is gone. So the block is seeing positive crankcase pressure which it never should with my Cosworth dry sump system. That explains the smoke trail, blow-by and oil were shooting out the port hitting the turbo and exhaust and making the massive smoke cloud.

The good news: No holes in the block, at least not obvious ones. The DS tank was still full of oil and the oil looked fine, no water in the oil.

We watched the races, packed up and I dropped the car off at Cobb Surgeline for them to figure out what happened.

My best guess now is that despite burping the engine till it showed no more bubbles and wouldn't take any more water, and normal coolant and oil temps on the track, there may have been a air bubble that caused some localized heat damage and blew or burned something out.

To cap off the day I watched the second race with my friend in the 818R. We were both totally out classed by the hyper race cars in our group, but we had extremely close lap times and were looking forward to having a couple of races between us while we watched for the 700-900 HP monsters go by us at light speed.

The race was tough on him too. I was sitting in the stands with the car's owner when he came around with white smoke from the under the hood. We thought he'd popped a radiator hose, but he was actually on fire! It was an electrical fire in the wire harness. Ugly.

So much for the two Subaru powered cars.

Back in the paddock my Crew Chief looks at me and says, "Are you done with turbo Subarus yet, because I sure am!"

Well not quite yet Honey, let's see what the repair is going to be!
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Old 07-09-2017, 08:32 PM   #79
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Nicely written story; thoroughly enjoyed it!
Looking forward to hopefully hearing some good news about the engine.
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Old 07-09-2017, 08:51 PM   #80
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Thanks for sharing and sorry to hear about the issues - burping air out of the cooling system is tough - I've gone to overnight bleeding with the big yellow fill accessory on my car. And a very funky method to get it done somewhat quickly on customers cars. You should get one for your track toolbox as they are under $40. http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-24680...E6cBoCLbDw_wcB

Ben and his wife from Germany stopped out today hoping to see you run. He just DMed me and I linked him to this thread.

L
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Old 07-09-2017, 09:14 PM   #81
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Ben wants me to say he is sorry to hear about your issues. He isn't a member here.

Last edited by BlueSTI4Me; 07-09-2017 at 11:05 PM.
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Old 07-10-2017, 12:36 AM   #82
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I was going to suggest the same tool to burp the coolant system. I used it on this car almost every race weekend. It is a must and the best way to clear the air in the coolant system. I hope you didn't go through another motor, good luck!

Nick
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Old 07-10-2017, 01:16 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueSTI4Me View Post
Thanks for sharing and sorry to hear about the issues - burping air out of the cooling system is tough - I've gone to overnight bleeding with the big yellow fill accessory on my car. And a very funky method to get it done somewhat quickly on customers cars. You should get one for your track toolbox as they are under $40. http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-24680...E6cBoCLbDw_wcB

Ben and his wife from Germany stopped out today hoping to see you run. He just DMed me and I linked him to this thread.

L

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Originally Posted by BlueSTI4Me View Post
Ben wants me to say he is sorry to hear about your issues. He isn't a member here.
Thanks for letting him know.
On the burping, I have an Airlift which works awesome, but just not with me.

The problem was trying to do it in a rush, there was no time to do it overnight.
I'm not sure that it had anything to do with the failure yet. It seems like it would simply because of the circumstances though.
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Old 07-16-2017, 09:17 AM   #84
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Did you actually compression test anything yet?
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Old 07-17-2017, 02:30 AM   #85
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Did you actually compression test anything yet?
Yep, 1 & 3, no compression. A scope shows cylinder damage. A new shortblock is being prepared. Rallispec is working with me on the new one.
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Old 07-19-2017, 11:04 AM   #86
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2017 Prodrive Type RA STI Nurburgring car sorted and ready for the record attempt. That's not a TMIC, it's the Air filter intake.
Notice the Murray Constant Tension Clamps!
Available at http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing

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Old 08-06-2017, 05:31 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator View Post
Engine in and running well. Clutch is in and working great.
Did you figure out what went wrong with the clutch? I have an Exedy Twin as well so I'm curious.

I've always liked the way it drives, but it stopped disengaging after about 20k miles due to a broken spring. Heard from other owners that the discs only last about 30k, started looking into alternatives...

Tried an ACT HDSS, found it couldn't hold the torque my setup makes (started slipping in 3rd gear), went back to the Twin. Still really like the way it drives... not keen on the reliability so far though.
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Old 11-02-2017, 04:16 PM   #88
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Did you figure out what went wrong with the clutch? I have an Exedy Twin as well so I'm curious.

I've always liked the way it drives, but it stopped disengaging after about 20k miles due to a broken spring. Heard from other owners that the discs only last about 30k, started looking into alternatives...

Tried an ACT HDSS, found it couldn't hold the torque my setup makes (started slipping in 3rd gear), went back to the Twin. Still really like the way it drives... not keen on the reliability so far though.
Sorry for the long delayed update, no I didn't figure out why we had an issue with it. The new one works fine.
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Old 11-02-2017, 04:42 PM   #89
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Default STI and FF818R

The STI:
The relined block and heads are finally on the way!

Here's what's coming:

Normal 79mm stroke and 8.2:1 CR.

Short Block - Closed Deck EJ257 Block, aluminum sleeves w/ NSC coating, Cosworth 8.2:1 pistons in 99.5mm bore sizing, RalliSpec H-beam rods w/ ARP L19 bolts, King XPG bearings, Manley billet crankshaft. Rotational weights matched to less than 1/4g and total reciprocating weights matched to less than 1/2g. Piston clearances are much tighter than previously used because the expansion rates of the cylinder liners...this is based on discussions with the liner manufacturer based on their experiences and the data we gave them.

Heads - Factory B25 castings w/ only modifications being some tweaking to the valve seat angles and blending of the port to the seat and smoothing some of the bowl areas. Valves are Supertech standard size valves with intakes in stainless steel with black nitride finish and exhausts in Inconel material. Valve springs are beehive type for sustained high rpm use and fitted with titanium retainers. Valve seals are a high temp material on both intake and exhaust. Valve locks are standard. No cams or lifters are being supplied. Heads will be fully assembled but not fitted on to the block.

Heads and block are machined for 1/2" head studs.

RCM head gaskets supplied.

Everything brand new except the block which is the same block that was used in the original stroker build.

Finally moving along!

And in other news:

In September I bid a ridiculously low $$ on a Factory Five 818R. Much to my surprise, I won the auction! No one in the Factory Five forum can believe it, it's a car that has been on there on the build threads since 2014. So it's well known. I was actually trying to help the owner get some bidders going on the car, I had no hope I would end up winning the bid.

If you aren't familiar with them they are "kit" cars based on Subaru WRX/STI donors. The R version is the full race car, as compared to the S (Street) and C (Coupe). This one is powered by a forged built EJ 20. This particular car was built and actually registered in California and is "street legal". It has two seats.

I will use it as an instruction car and track rental car at ORP. It will also be the backup car to the STI during race season, which means we shouldn't have any more issues with no car to race if the inevitable happens. They will race in the same class in both Sprint and Enduro racing, so we should be consistent class finishers next year.

I need to re-install a dry sump system, the owner had already sold off the dry sump he had on it.

Also the roll bar is too low so we are going to build a front hoop like a Lotus 2-Eleven FIA GT car. See pics.

Completion Date:*Fall 2014

Chassis:
Powder coated
Carbon Fiber Rear Race Spoiler (custom welded frame mounted)
Carbon Fiber Rear Race Diffuser
Carbon Fiber Race Splitter

Motor:
2004 JDM EJ20
Dominator 1.5xtr
750cc injectors
Killer B pickup and baffle
Outfront Fuel Rails
Grimspeed ceramic coated inside/outside - exhaust manifold, cross pipe, up pipe
Cusco Motor/trans mounts
340 lpm fuel pump


ECU and wiring:
JDM ECU
Iwire custom wiring harness w/factory ECU

Trans:
Cusco 1.5 LSD
2004 5 speed
Exedy stage 2 clutch
ACT flywheel

Brakes:
Wilwood 12" Red - Slotted & Drilled

Wheels:
Enkei Kojin
17x8 + 45 Front*
18x8.5 + 45 Rear*
New WRX hubs

Tires:
Hoosiers A7
225/40-17 Front heat cycled
255/35-18 Rear heat cycled
AND
Hoosiers R6
225/40-17 Front heat cycled
255/35-18 Rear heat cycled

Anyone interested in a 2009 Corvette Z06???? I have to make room now!

The car I bought:

..

Yes it is registered to drive on the street!

..

..

The Lotus 2-Eleven FIA car with the cage/roll hoop style we will be using:..

...
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Old 11-03-2017, 09:38 AM   #90
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Riiiiight, "I swear I didn't mean to buy the racecar"

That light of a car with that much power should be quite entertaining on track.

Frankly I'd be scared of the thing!
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Old 11-03-2017, 10:14 AM   #91
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Higher compression ratio, a larger EFR turbo or the new G series, and a freely revving bottom end...keep the heat down, the power up and fuel consumption low.

It'll also have some mechanical sympathy on the driveline...but this all depends on what classing you plan to run.
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Old 11-18-2017, 11:42 AM   #92
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A few updates:
The new block and heads for the STI have arrived at Surgeline. No ETA yet on when it will be running again. The damaged block with the crank and associated parts are going back to Rallispec to be credited to my account depending on what's usable.

On the 818R we've installed a FITech surge tank, ESS 5L Foam fire bottle, a battery box for an EarthX lion battery, and a new Mishsmoto XLine STI radiator.

..

New Mishimoto XLine STI Radiator, Battery Box for an EarthX Lithium Battery, & ESS Foam 4.8L Fire Bottle Installed:



And Fuel Tank Cleaned up and wiring squared away a bit:



Next up will be fitting a Mishimoto G-Line FMIC, ducting, and the IC tubes.
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Old 12-12-2017, 03:23 PM   #93
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From PRI 2017: I had a great talk with the owner of the Can Jam Motorsports STI, Nick Hoo, that just won the Speedring 2017 Time Attack overall fastest time and earned them a $20K check from Motovicity. It was very interesting. First a few shots of his car:



I think the splitter needs to be a little larger....



Murray Constant Tension Turbo Clamps!...Yes, I sell them, how many do you want? See http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing




OK, so where's the Dry Sump? There has to be one in here somewhere.....



The answer is there isn't one <now>.

Like all Subaru racers that get into High G's Nick suffered several oil related engine failures from the heads filling with oil. That led him to use what most of us consider the cream of the crop DS, the Dailey. However, they still weren't getting the longevity they expected. They noticed a slight drop in oil pressure under hard acceleration.

With the previous wet sump pans, they had never experienced this issue. The problem with the wet sumps was they were filling the heads with oil. So for 2017, they switched back to a Killer Bee pan and pickup. But the key was they machined ports in the bottom of each head and ran AN lines to a Tilton electric pump mounted low out the picture above, down by the frame, then lines from the pump back into ports installed in the OEM plastic oil fill pipe. That empties the heads of oil and drops it right back into the KB pan.

Sorry, I didn't get better pics of that setup but I'm sure you can imagine it.

Very cool!

However, for 2018 they are scrapping the Tilton pump system and going with an Aviaid DS setup. Despite his success with the above system he still wants a true dry sump. I told him my experiences with that setup and how to rearrange the pump blades for an easier install. This car not only does Time Attack but up to two hour enduros and they want a DS sytem with a large tank again.


And over in the Ford Performance booth...the Joey Logano Daytona Coupe featured in the Gas Monkeys episode a few weeks ago:

....

The Taylor brothers LMP car that killed it this year:




The THill25 winning Flying Lizards (two years in a row):



Sequential Tranny from Pfitzner



And if anybody is thinking about a sequential dog box I talked with every vendor about using one in a 818 and STI. Just be ready to spend $15 to $25K. And another $4K for a Geartronics GCU if you want that <you do!>
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Old 12-12-2017, 11:34 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator View Post
With the previous wet sump pans, they had never experienced this issue. The problem with the wet sumps was they were filling the heads with oil. So for 2017, they switched back to a Killer Bee pan and pickup. But the key was they machined ports in the bottom of each head and ran AN lines to a Tilton electric pump mounted low out the picture above, down by the frame, then lines from the pump back into ports installed in the OEM plastic oil fill pipe. That empties the heads of oil and drops it right back into the KB pan.

Sorry, I didn't get better pics of that setup but I'm sure you can imagine it.

Very cool!

However, for 2018 they are scrapping the Tilton pump system and going with an Aviaid DS setup. Despite his success with the above system he still wants a true dry sump. I told him my experiences with that setup and how to rearrange the pump blades for an easier install. This car not only does Time Attack but up to two hour enduros and they want a DS sytem with a large tank again.
I had the same idea for a poor man's dry sump, but I just figured it wouldn't work because I didn't know there was an electric pump that is both affordable and can move enough oil. Really cool to know that it actually works.
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Old 12-13-2017, 09:55 AM   #95
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Makes a lot of sense to do that on a boxer motor.
Do any of the dry sumps systems have scavenge sections for clearing the heads like this?

Wouldn't think it'd be that hard to add them if they didn't....
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Old 12-13-2017, 12:52 PM   #96
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Just so you know Richard Boake and family own the CanJam Black Storm Subaru and the Motovicity sponsored Speed Ring didn't write no check, it was $20,000 cash in a briefcase (I saw it and have a pic on Track Subies - Group Facebook). Car, driver and team are all extremely professional and I admire their accomplishments. Nick owns CanJam right? I spoke to Mr. Boake father of Richard on Saturday at PRI. Love it all.

Thanks for the details on the oiling, I wonder if that would work on an HPDE/Enthusiast car?

https://i.imgur.com/e2iF9Nj.jpg
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Old 12-13-2017, 01:01 PM   #97
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Kind of an odd place to put the oil they scavenge though considering the oil fill tube goes right back into the drivers side head. So in a long right hand sweeper you'd be filling, scavenging from, then refilling the same head.

It's a cool idea though.
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Old 12-13-2017, 03:05 PM   #98
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Originally Posted by BlueSTI4Me View Post
Thanks for the details on the oiling, I wonder if that would work on an HPDE/Enthusiast car?
Can you even have these oiling problems when lapping with just summer tires and minimal aero? Or does it take slicks, huge air dam, huge wing, canards, etc, to get enough lateral Gs to run into these problems in the first place?

I know a couple guys who have a lot of laps on daily-driver Legacy GTs without any major oil mods, so I'd like to think this is not going to be a problem for people lapping in their daily drivers on summer tires. Because I'm hoping to join them on the track this summer.
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Old 12-13-2017, 04:18 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NSFW View Post
Can you even have these oiling problems when lapping with just summer tires and minimal aero? Or does it take slicks, huge air dam, huge wing, canards, etc, to get enough lateral Gs to run into these problems in the first place?

I know a couple guys who have a lot of laps on daily-driver Legacy GTs without any major oil mods, so I'd like to think this is not going to be a problem for people lapping in their daily drivers on summer tires. Because I'm hoping to join them on the track this summer.
A good quality AOS is sufficient for most people I think. But it also depends on the track layout. If there are some long sweeper corners where you're pulling reasonably high cornering loads (1.3+g) then it will impact you more than tracks with shorter corners. Like I don't really have any problems at autox just because the oil doesn't have time to accumulate in the heads. But on the track, a have lost over a liter of oil to my vented catch can in one 15min session just from oil pushing out of the valve cover breathers. That oil needs to make it back to the crank case either with a drainback AOS. A drysump would do this too if you have one of the lines going to the heads.

I replaced it with an AOS and the problem is gone. At least for me at my current grip levels. Street tires are getting pretty fast though so tires like the re71r and rival 1.5. I've seen these be faster than some rcomps in the right hands.
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Old 12-13-2017, 04:54 PM   #100
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You can have oil starve in autox too, but that's with 315's (or bigger) and reasonable aero. The majority of Subarus running track days are on 245ish sized street tires on stock aero or minor upgrades are going to pull MAYBE 1.2 steady state lateral G's. If you have a long enough sweeper on throttle, you will eventually see oil starve, but the driver has to be good. Most drivers are not good enough which is why most people don't lose engines doing a few track days a year.

On average a good AOS that drains back is all you need on street tires. On grippy setups an oil pan with extra capacity and AOS is good. Full track cars generating steady state of 1.5 G's or above is when you start to see the need for a dry sump if you don't want to refresh the engine on a regular basis.

It also depends on power level, how loose your PTW is, and a whole host of other factors.
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