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Old 01-15-2010, 09:44 PM   #151
saico99
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have you noticed the diff being a lil noisy after this mod, caused by the vibration traveling through the chassi?!?!
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Old 01-19-2010, 01:33 AM   #152
ATIC...
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Well, probably- Just considering that's what all upgraded bushings will do (add NVH)... But that's why we get them! I'm getting my set soon.
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Old 01-19-2010, 05:22 AM   #153
fallehero_08
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i am very interested in tightening up the back of my wrx, and with so many options i am wondering what comments those at perrin have about the heated comparison of theirs and others kits. it seems like Tic has full bushings and the whiteline lock down is a solid bolt, unlike the perrin and tic. my end goal with the car is full out track prepped and timed lap car, so what assurances can you offer that your cheaper sls, can stand up compared to full bushings and solid bolts? do you offer any warranty if your lockdown bolts break or the insert breaks? here is one discussion i have been following.

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/drivetra...1-2-price.html
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Old 01-19-2010, 02:48 PM   #154
PERRIN_Chris
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Our rear diff lockdown will add some whine under hard acceleration and low RPM, but it will reduce a lot of movement! The subframe lockdown will only add little NVH since it includes mostly bolts.

The benefits of our diff lockdown is there are no need to press in any bushings! Just remove a nut, insert new bushings, and tighten it back down!

We do have a warranty, but I've never seen any of the bolts break ever. The only way I could see a bolt breaking if you got into an accident.
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Old 01-22-2012, 01:55 PM   #155
kunzer51
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wow nice work i should go with a driveshaft like that would have helped my exhaust clearence problem with my exhaust on the center support
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Old 09-12-2014, 04:03 PM   #156
snohobo
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Well, not sure if the bolt broke, but something broke.

This is going to sound stupid, but here you go. I bought Kartboy Botox Bolts recently, and went to go install them, not realizing that the PO had already installed Perrin Lockout Bolts. Not knowing what those looked like (until now), I decided to remove the bolts that were currently in the subframe. Used an impact to remove the driver side.

Came out easy, realized that I must have pull out a locking subframe bolt and decided to put it back in.

At about 3/4 of thew way in, the bolt starts spinning fast. Something snapped in there. The bolt moved in and out about 1/2" but wont come all the way out.

I'm stuck with a spinning sub frame bolt. Not sure what broke in there, or even what the hole is welded to, or if the bolt snapped in half.

Any ideas on how to get it out? Tried to use a prybar on the bolt head but it wasnt moving.

Thanks for your help all.
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Old 09-12-2014, 05:57 PM   #157
PERRIN_Chris
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Sorry to hear about your bolt. It seems like that you broke the weld on the nut in the subframe. That nut is held on just with two small welds, and could break if it's overtightened, or the bolt going through it are marred up. The only way to fix it would be to get it from the top, which would require drilling a hole in the trunk above the nut.
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Old 09-13-2014, 02:21 AM   #158
snohobo
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Well, OK. A few questions then because I'm likely going to want to fix this.

1) How do I make sure I'm drilling right above the bolt?

2) What kind and size bit will I need to make a big enough hole to get a socket in there?

3) Can I just replace the nut with a locknut and washer or should I reweld the nut on there (no access to a welder but I could if I had to).

4) Should I just leave it as is? I think there may be some additional noise that wasnt there since this thing broke, and my plan was tightening up the rear end, not loosening it up!

Thanks for the advice, it's a bummer but not that big of a deal.

PS Love your products!
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Old 09-15-2014, 05:21 PM   #159
PERRIN_Chris
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If you PM me your address, I can send you a picture of about where you're going to want to drill.

You'll want a drill bit the size of the socket, so it'll have to be pretty big.

You could replace it with a washer and a nut, that would be easier then to welding a new nut on there.

You could leave it the way that it is right now, but it would probably be annoying hearing the bolt loose back there.
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Old 02-13-2015, 11:38 PM   #160
bink_420
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Sub'd
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Old 06-06-2015, 07:55 AM   #161
Masters84
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I just did the Perrin rear differential lockdown kit yesterday I have one question installing the lockdown bolts driver side the bolt threaded into the empty hole all the way up to the next of the bolt head but on the passenger side it threaded a bit less. I couldn't turn the bolt anymore even with a 3ft breaker bar for more leverage. Is this normal or should I re thread the hole. I took the bolt out several times to make sure it wasn't cross treaded.
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Old 06-08-2015, 04:19 PM   #162
PERRIN_Chris
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Masters, it could be that either the bolt or the nut is stripped, or maybe there's something in the hole? You don't want to put too much pressure on it, since it could break the welds on the nut in the subframe.
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Old 11-18-2015, 06:51 PM   #163
lowbee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PERRIN_Chris View Post
Our rear diff lockdown will add some whine under hard acceleration and low RPM, but it will reduce a lot of movement! The subframe lockdown will only add little NVH since it includes mostly bolts.
Sorry, I am a little confused now. Can you explain which lockdown kit (differential or subframe) contribute the most to the elimination of the 1st to 2nd gear clunk on a 2011 STi.... I am not sure I like the whine of the rear diff lockdown kit and would like to understand what benefit this kit brings and what I am trading off. Thanks

Last edited by lowbee; 11-18-2015 at 07:17 PM.
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Old 11-18-2015, 07:14 PM   #164
PERRIN_Chris
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I'd say that the subframe lockdown kit will do the most to get rid of the 1st to 2nd clunk. The white from the diff lockdown kit actually isn't too bad, you don't really hear it unless you're really getting on it. Thanks!
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Old 11-18-2015, 07:20 PM   #165
lowbee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PERRIN_Chris View Post
I'd say that the subframe lockdown kit will do the most to get rid of the 1st to 2nd clunk. The white from the diff lockdown kit actually isn't too bad, you don't really hear it unless you're really getting on it. Thanks!
Thanks for the lighten fast response. If I want to stiffen the drivetrain in stages, I would guess one would do the subframe lockdown first and the engine mount last ??

What order do you recommend for installing the following components to get a progressive improvement ? subframe lockdown, rear diff lockdown, Transmission Mount, pitch stop mount, engine mount.....feel free to add more bushing/mount in the mix
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Old 11-18-2015, 07:24 PM   #166
PERRIN_Chris
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It's up to you on what order you want to do them, you can't really do it wrong really. The engine bushings and the subframe bushings aren't related, so you can do those independently.

It'd save you time to do the engine related mounts at the same time. But you can do any of them independently, and that'll be fine.
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Old 02-25-2017, 01:38 AM   #167
Vancouver98STi
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V4 GF8 White

Question Same for JDM STi wagon?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cdnsigop View Post

I put this set up in my 1998 Impreza L a few days ago. I was able to use the outrigger bushings, and subframe lock bolts with no issues. All I did for the subframe bolt holes was run a tap through the threads, and install bolts with copper anti seize. Those went in without drama.

The tricky part was the actual differential bushings on the rear of the diff. My car dosnt have the diff support, the bushings are actually in the subframe. So I double nutted, pulled out the old studs from the diff, and used the perrin diff bushings between the diff and subframe. 2 of the 4 fit perfectly. The other 2 bushings couldnt be used on the rear of the stock bushings without a washer to hold them in place...

The washers cost $3.50 for the pack of 8 shown. Perrin, it would cost you less than 88 cents to make this kit fit all the GF/GC chassis cars as well!

Here are the pics of the washers and installed bushings:



This was a very informative post.

Now my question... Would this same procedure also apply to my '98 Impreza, the difference being that it's a JDM STi wagon?

Last edited by Vancouver98STi; 04-14-2017 at 04:57 PM. Reason: Spelling!
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Old 04-14-2017, 05:14 PM   #168
Vancouver98STi
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Question Not as straightforward as it seems...

Moved my question to Here.

Last edited by Vancouver98STi; 04-15-2017 at 04:03 PM. Reason: Moved to a more appropriate area of the forum.
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Old 09-30-2017, 02:39 PM   #169
tree_stone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PERRIN_Chris View Post
If you PM me your address, I can send you a picture of about where you're going to want to drill.

You'll want a drill bit the size of the socket, so it'll have to be pretty big.

You could replace it with a washer and a nut, that would be easier then to welding a new nut on there.

You could leave it the way that it is right now, but it would probably be annoying hearing the bolt loose back there.
Sorry to bring back such an old thread, but could someone please share where to drill the hole? I broke mine loose on the passenger side of my 05 Impreza wagon.

Last edited by tree_stone; 09-30-2017 at 04:12 PM.
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