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Old 11-03-2019, 01:08 PM   #7
Gamil
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 220375
Join Date: Aug 2009
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Pasadena, TX
Vehicle:
2011 Outback Sport
Blue

Default

1. Timing belt is fine. Not my first, I gave the engine several full rotations and checked before droppinwg into the car, and checked it again after the first time I ran it. I've had a skipped tooth before on a phase 1 EJ22, and it was pretty darn noticeable. Not "once in a while I get a misfire code"

2. What is there to check ons the crank sensor? WOuldn't a problematic one produce all kinds of errors?

3.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gamil View Post
I did gap the plugs today and they all measured fine. But, #2 is slightly sooty. The rest looked perfect (no soot, no oil, no white spots, just brown/grey which the FSM says is the norm)
I'm using a new set of the same NGK Iridiums that I had used for the preceeding 50,000 miles without a single code.

4. Shop intalled the valves, stem seals and retainers. I installed the cams. I Read the FSM procedure 3 times before starting, and then started following it one step at a time. Assembly lube, torque specs and sequence.

5. Why would a brand new harness from dealer not be intact? I was running the engine on the old harness with the O2 sensor and knock sensor connectors taped together until after about 300 miles I started getting a "low voltage" code on the knock sensor. I figured it was because a jerry-rigged connector just wasn't staying together. Once I replaced both knock sensor and harness with brand NEW OEM parts, then I started getting the mis-fire code
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